Woodland Peony design, planting, and care

Woodland Peonies are a group of herbaceous peonies noteworthy for their preference for shade. They are the first peony to bloom in the spring. They grow and naturalize in a deciduous woodland where they get early spring sun and summer shade. They are low-growing, self-seeding, and will create sprays of forest ground cover. Woodland peonies provide three-season appeal, offering delicate white flowers in early spring, lush green foliage throughout the growing seasons, and dramatic indigo and scarlet seed pods in the fall. Woodland peonies thrive in horticultural zones 3-8. Shade-loving, three-season appeal, good naturalizers.

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Looking for information on other types of peonies: Herbaceous Peony Care | Intersectional Peony Care | Tree Peony Care

Woodland Herbaceous Peonies are a separate species of herbaceous peonies worth noting individually due to their preference for shade. Woodland peonies are deer proof. They naturalize well in a deciduous woodland where they get early spring sun, before the leaves come on the trees, and summer shade.Like most deciduous woodland understory plants they bloom early in the season as they only have access to the sun before the leaves come on the trees and they get shaded out. Woodland peonies look beautiful planted on their own, or can be planted as part of a mixed shade garden with hellebores, hosta, ferns, lily of the valley, and bleeding heart to name a few. They grow 1'-1.5' tall and self seed creating sprays of low growing forest ground cover. Woodland peonies provide three season appeal with delicate white flowers in early spring, lush green foliage throughout the growing seasons, and dramatic indigo and scarlet seed pods in the fall. Good naturalizers, easy to grow, deer proof plants.

Naturalized Planting

For a naturalized planting we begin by throwing the number of tennis balls that correspond with the number of plants we want to plant up into the air loosely and allowing them to settle naturally. Then digging a hole at each location where a tennis ball falls. Woodland peonies like the rich hummus top soil that tends to be found in the woodland and use this looser soil to grow horizontally. Over time this planting will fill in and create a natural aesthetic.

The roots of woodland peonies tend to spread out more horizontally than they do vertically in the humus-rich layer of topsoil. Like all peonies, they need good drainage and a relatively high level of organic matter in the soil (see amending the soil above). We recommend digging holes that are 1 foot wide by 8 inches deep.

Plant so that 0.5 to 1.5 inches of soil cover the top of the roots-peonies should be planted deeper in lower numbered zones and shallower in higher numbered zones. For example, most of Virginia will plant peonies at .5 inch, northern New Jersey will plant at 1 inch, and Maine will plant at 1.5 inches below the surface of the soil. Planted too deeply flowers will not develop, too shallowly and the tops of the eyes will freeze and die back in the winter.

Press down on the soil to remove air pockets around the root and lift the root as necessary so it does not settle more than 1.5 inches beneath the ground. Water in well. Avoid mulching your woodland peonies, as this will bury the top of the root too deep below the ground, and it will not flower. Natural leaf litter accumulation from the forest is fine.

Let the rain do most of the watering. Woodland peonies, like all peonies, don't like sprinkler systems. Instead, make sure they get regular soakings during drought.

DO NOT PLANT WOODLAND PEONIES IN POTS. They need to be in the ground to spread out and naturalize in a deciduous woodland.

Amend the Soil

As your peony prefers to be planted and left in one location, it is worth taking the time to prepare the soil. Soil prep matters!

• You are looking to create a friable loam—a soft, rich, loose soil made of three parts clay, two parts sand, and one part compost. Peonies prefer soil with a neutral pH of 6.5-7. Most often, you are looking to raise the pH of the soil; you can do this by adding lime.

• Generally, most dirt is sand and clay. Be prepared to add compost. Sandy soil drains well, but leeches nutrition; heavy clay soil drains poorly, but retains nutrition.

  • In very sandy soil, top dress quarterly with a thin layer of compost, as nutrition will leech through the soil quickly.

  • Heavy clay soil often has drainage issues; while it will hold onto nutrition longer, it will also retain water. It is therefore essential to improve drainage by adding compost and sand before planting. Additionally, top dressing with compost is recommended.

• When planting new gardens it is best to get your soil tested. Here is a link to the Rutgers site that we use in NJ. If you are in another state please refer to your agricultural extension office for help.

Preparing a bed

With soil amendments in mind, you have the options to dig individual holes or prepare an entire bed. Both require the soil to be amended to the depth of one foot. In all cases, after planting, get in the habit of lightly top dressing with compost at least once a year (more often if the soil in your area is particularly sandy).

Deadheading Peonies

Woodland peonies have beautiful seedpods of indigo and scarlet. If let go naturally they will self-seed in an area, creating swaths of peonies like the clump pictured above. If you want to control the spread of your woodland peonies simply deadhead them after the bloom. Cut flowers back to the first set of leaves.

Feed Peonies

Planted in a deciduous woodland with rich soil and great drainage, woodland peonies can thrive almost entirely on their own as the nutrient cycle is self-sustaining. Nonetheless, a little food will help keep your peonies healthy and floriferous.

Feed lightly three times a year—in the fall when you clean up your garden and prepare plants for winter, in early spring just as shoots emerge, and again in early summer after plants have bloomed.

Compost: At Peony’s Envy, we primarily use locally-sourced compost, Neptune’s Harvest Fish and Seaweed Emulsion, and OMRI-certified worm castings. When applying compost, thin layers are better than thick, and remember to apply at the drip line and not over the center of the plant, since applying on the root will bury the plant too deeply and eventually prevent flowering. For large-scale projects in the area, we recommend Full Circle Mushroom Compost.

Foliar Feeds: Plants absorb nutrients more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. Liquid fertilizers, such as Neptune's Harvest Fish and Seaweed Fertilizer or Nature’s Source plant food, can be used to foliar feed during critical growing times. We recommend foliar feeding in early spring when peonies are setting buds.

Worm castings: When first planting or to reinvigorate a garden after long-term neglect, we recommend using worm castings as an extra boost. It is garden gold, and a little goes a long way. As an added bonus, peonies will love its high pH.

If you choose to use synthetic or partially synthetic fertilizers, choose one that is well-balanced and releases nutrients at a slow rate. A 10-10-10 fertilizer is best for spring and summer, and a 5-10-10 is best for fall. Rarely do we use synthetic fertilizers at Peony’s Envy.

Watering Peonies

With the more frequent droughts we have adjusted our tips on watering. Peonies like heavy infrequent soakings; when irrigation is necessary, consider drip lines instead of overhead sprinkler systems. During the first growing season after planting a new peony, ensure it gets a good soaking once a week. Weekly soakings keep the plant from being stressed by drought as it develops its fibrous root system. However, remember that peonies do not like wet feet, and be careful to not over water. Watering daily or use of foliar sprinkler systems can cause rot. It is essential that your peony be planted in well-draining soil so that the water does not pool around the plant. Established peonies require less supplemental watering but still benefit from heavy infrequent soakings, especially in times of drought.

Weeding - Do Not Add Mulch or Use Weed Suppressants

Do not mulch your woodland herbaceous peonies! Mulch will bury the crown of the peony too deeply and eventually cause it not to flower. If you have added mulch over time, it is best to check the depth of your peonies and remove any mulch that covers the plant. In transitioning away from using mulch, remember that light layers of compost applied regularly around the drip line of your peonies (again, not on the crown) will feed your garden and can also help suppress weeds.

Instead, weed around your peonies. The shade from mature peonies will act as a weed suppressant from late spring to late fall. The first application of compost in early spring helps combat weed growth. After applying this first thin layer of compost, remove any weeds before they seed—this will ensure they do not spread throughout the year.

We often recommend under-planting your peonies with small spring bulbs, like miniature daffodils and crocus. They bloom before peonies, don't compete with them, and provide a nice early summer groundcover that reduces weeds. Be careful not to plant anything larger or that is particularly invasive around your peonies, or anything that will compete with your peonies and cause them to suffer.

Do not use any pesticides or weed suppressants anywhere close to your peonies! We have had several customers contact us with dead plants only to find out after laboratory testing that the runoff from their lawns, that had been sprayed with weed suppressants, killed their plants.

Cut Back Woodland Peonies in the Fall

Woodland peonies bloom before all other peonies and also go dormant earlier in the year. In the fall, woodland peony leaves lose their luster and begin to die back for the winter. As they fade, they are no longer photosynthesizing and providing sugar to the root, which means that it is time for fall cleanup and care. It is common at this time for the leaves to be less than aesthetically pleasing. They may be dotted with brown spots or covered in a white mold. These diseases are common and largely cosmetic, but should be removed from the garden. Cut back your woodland peony stems so they are three to four inches above the ground and throw away the leaves. Leaves should not be composted in your home garden compost, as it does not get hot enough to kill the spores and bacteria that may be on the plant.

Additional fall care consists of cleaning up the area around the peony and adding compost six inches from the base of the stem. Compost should not be piled directly on the peony, as any layered soil will make the peony too deep and may keep it from flowering in coming years. Carefully check the surface around the stem to ensure the pink or white eyes remain 0.5 to 1.5 inches below the surface of the soil, depending on your horticultural zone. If desired, add fish and seaweed emulsion, bone meal, or a slow release fall fertilizer according to package directions to give your plants a little boost for fall.

Peonies are very resilient plants that typically thrive and grow without incident. However, every once in a while a fungus or virus may take hold and impact the health of your peony plants. Although infections generally start in early spring, they often go unnoticed until later in the summer. Left unchecked, these diseases can do real damage to your peonies.

Powdery Mildew - Erysiphales (Fungus)

If you are experiencing a white powder like covering on the leaves of your peony, you have powdery mildew in your garden.

SYMPTOMS: Leaves turn white. Onset is in late June through September. It is not fatal and tree peonies are less prone than herbaceous or intersectional peonies to this fungus. In some years, powdery mildew is worse than others. It can infect plants when there are hot days, high humidity, and cool nights. Once the plant is infected there are virtually no sprays or oils that will completely rid the plant of powdery mildew this year. However, there are some preventative remedies to keep your plants from getting powdery mildew in coming years.

TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.

OUTLOOK: Considered more unsightly than harmful in peonies.

TREATMENT: Bacillus subtilis to boost plant's natural defenses; neem oil or other horticultural oils after the leaves have formed; baking soda spray (1t baking soda, 1qt. water and a few drops of liquid soap) on the soil in early spring and on the plant itself in the summer; rhubarb leaf tea; cornmeal as a soil amendment; or mixed as a spray; products containing sulfur, or a biofungicide recommended to treat powdery mildew on peonies;. All pesticides should be used according to package directions, and remedies should be tried on portions of the plant prior to making large scale applications.

Another good natural preventative remedy is to regularly spray a solution of 30% milk to 70% water on your plants on sunny days. This helps not only peonies, but all plants susceptible to powdery mildew. 

PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

Botrytis - Botrytis paeoniae (Fungus)

SYMPTOMS: Stalks wilt and die, buds turn black. Onset is typically in early spring but can be at any time when temperatures remain below 70 degrees. Botrytis is especially prevalent when the weather is cool, wet, and humid. Botrytis is common and when seen in your garden can persist for years through spores in the soil.

TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.

OUTLOOK: Botrytis is easy to treat but can kill peonies and other plants when not treated, so it is especially important to pay attention to signs of the fungus.

TREATMENT: When noticed, cut off diseased portions of the plant, dipping the pruners in a 10% solution of bleach (or use Clorox wipes) between each cut to ensure the disease does not spread. Throw out the diseased portions; do not compost. A more aggressive option would be to use systemic fungicide labeled for use on peonies. The cooperative extension service of New Jersey recommends Ferban and Manebrom. Griffin Greenhouse Supply recommends products including Cease, Daconil, Medallion, and Veranda-O. Follow label instructions carefully and test fungicides on one plant before making large scale applications. Continue to treat according to the label instructions as the disease persists. Their are OMRI approved fungicides for the treatment of botrytis.

PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

Peony Blotch/Red Spot/Measles - Cladosporium paeoniae (Fungus)

SYMPTOMS: Small circular round spots begin to appear in spring just before the plants flower. The spots will increase in size and are not often detected until mid summer. If left unchecked spots can eventually cover the whole plant.

TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.

OUTLOOK: Does not immediately kill the plant but successive years of the fungal disease will impact the health of the plant.

TREATMENT: When noticed, cut off diseased portions of the plant, dipping the pruners in a 10% solution of bleach (or use Clorox wipes) between each cut to ensure the disease does not spread. Clean up all debris around the plants, and throw all of this matter away - do not compost. Use a fungicide that is intended for Peony Blotch on peonies, apply according to the manufacturers instructions.

PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

Phytophthora Blight - Phytophthora cactorum (Fungus)

SYMPTOMS: Phytophthora blight is a soil-borne fungus. The stems at the base of the plant will begin to darken and then wilt and die. Leaves may appear drought stressed. The entire plant may rot making it easy to pull from the ground. The fungus can survive in the soil for years as long as moist conditions persist. Can be spread by garden tools and contaminated soil. Symptoms are often more evident during periods of low rainfall making it easy to confuse the onset of this disease with drought.

TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.

OUTLOOK: Phytophthora can kill peonies and other plants.

TREATMENT: When noticed, cut off diseased portions of the plant, dipping the pruners in a 10% solution of bleach (or use Clorox wipes) between each cut to ensure the disease does not spread. Clean up all debris around the plants, and throw all of this matter away - do not compost. Rutgers Diagnostic Lab notes that the fungicide Subdue can be used to treat Phytophthora on peonies, apply according to the manufacturers instructions. Be sure to treat both the plant and the soil. Improve soil drainage and prevent water from pooling near plants.

PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

Sclerotinia Rot/Southern Blight (Fungus)

SYMPTOMS: Sclerotinia Rot is a soil-borne fungus.Rot begins at the base of the plant with water-soaked stem lesions. Leaves will turn yellow and die. During times of high humidity a white cotton-like fungus spreads around the base of the plant and the soil. The fungal fruiting bodies appear like small collections of mustard seeds on the ground near the base of the plant.They may eventually form a crust on the soil.

TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.

OUTLOOK: Sclerotina can kill peonies and other plants.

TREATMENT: Rutgers Diagnostic Lab recommends using either Heritage or Headway for use on peonies for Sclerotina Rot, apply according to manufacturers directions. Be sure to treat both the plant and the soil. If that fails, remove diseased plants and the surrounding soil from your garden, do not compost. Sterilize all tools. Cover the area with clear plastic and leave it for two to three months in the heat of summer. After this period, increase the drainage in your soil and leave the soil fallow for at least one season before replanting.

PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

Viral Diseases

Peonies are also susceptible to a small number of viruses including peony ringspot virus, leaf curl, Le Moine disease, and the mosaic virus. These are rare, difficult to cure, and it is generally recommended to remove infected plants from your garden.

SYMPTOMS: Poor growth and stunted growth. Leaves will have a mottled/mosaic appearance. Portions of the leaves can turn yellow and die. Can be spread by insects or tools.

TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.

OUTLOOK: Viral diseases can kill peonies and other plants. Remove and dispose of infected plants, do not compost.

PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.Chafer Beetles

SYMPTOMS: Peony flowers being eaten. Chafer's are beetles look similar to Japanese beetles. They can be removed by hand or killed with almost any insecticide. Neem oil is an organic option, read the product label for more detailed instructions.

Bud-Blast

A wide variety of stressors can prevent peony buds from opening. This can include poor soil, immature plants, plants being buried too deeply, excessive mulch, not enough sun, and early spring frosts. Check the depth of your peony and adjust if necessary.

Chafer Beetles

SYMPTOMS: Peony flowers being eaten. Chafer beetles look similar to Japanese beetles. They can be removed by hand or killed with almost any insecticide. Neem oil is an organic option, read the product label for more detailed instructions. Ants are a natural predator and chase away chafer beetles.

Peonies Not Blooming

Peonies take time to become established. It is normal for a newly planted peony to not bloom the first year or two after planting. Peonies follow the well-known perennial truisms-first year sleep, second year creep, third year leap-or first year roots, second year shoots, third year flowers. They are well worth the wait.

If you have old established peonies that have beautiful green leaves and no flowers, it is often a problem with planting depth. This can be due to several reasons, such as mulching or shift in soil in the garden. Peonies are very sensitive to planting depth. If the plant becomes too deep, as it does when mulched, the shoots (called eyes) that form at the top of the root (the crown) do not get their proper "winter chill" and cannot form flower buds. This lack of winter chill is why peonies do not grow in places such as Florida or Southern California. If you have peonies that are not blooming, check the depth of your peony by delicately moving a bit of the soil from the top portion of the plant being careful not to break off the delicate pink eyes. The top of the root should be from 0.5 to 1.5 inches below the surface of the soil. For details on the exact planting depth for your area, see the Planting Page. If you find your peony to be too deep, it will need to be lifted. Transplanting is best done in the fall; moving it in the fall will also ensure that it gets the proper winter chill in the following season. Note that the first year after it is transplanted, it may not bloom as peonies take a year to recover from being transplanted. Don't worry, they are well worth the wait and will live for hundreds of years.

Another possibility that should not be ruled out is amount of sunlight. Woodland peonies need the early spring sun before the leaves have come on the trees. If you have conifers in your woodland then your peonies may not be getting enough sun.

If the overall health of your plant is declining, check planting depth, the amount of water, competition of roots, depletion of nutrients in the soil, or note if the area has flooded recently. It may be time to transplant your peony to a new location. Wet soil is a common factor in unhealthy peonies. It is possible to divide your peony when you transplant it by following instructions below. Plant divided roots in a new section of the garden so the soil in the former location can recover.

 If you are lucky enough to have mature peonies in your garden and they are blooming beautifully, first consider leaving them where they are, as peonies will sulk for a year or two after they are transplanted. If transplanting is inevitable, the time to do this is in the fall when the plants are dormant. If you are in a crunch, peonies can be transplanted successfully at other times of the year, but this is not recommended.

Before you start digging up your peony it is important to prepare the new location as mentioned on our Planting Page.

If you decide to transplant your peony in the fall, begin by cutting back the stems as you would do in fall cleanup. If you want to divide the peony before replanting, count the stems before digging. Plan ahead and pre-dig your holes-know that for every three to five stems, you can have approximately one new peony. See details on propagating/dividing below. Once this is done, lift your established woodland herbaceous peony using a large garden fork and begin at least eight inches from the base of the stem. Work your way around the plant and gently pry it from the ground. The roots are brittle and can easily be broken. Any time peonies are transplanted or divided, they take a few years to return to their previous grandeur.

Propagating by Seed

Woodland peonies are prolific seeders and will self sow in your woodland if let go naturally. Seeds will produce plants similar to their parent. Seeds will ripen and be ready to plant in early fall. Plant the seeds one inch below the surface of the soil immediately after they ripen. Plant them outside in similar conditions favored by the mother plants. Mark them well and wait. It may take two years for a seeding to emerge and many for the plants to produce flowers.

Propagating by Root Division

The easiest and most successful way of creating more peonies is to divide them. Root division, and/or grafting in the case of tree peonies, is the only way to create another plant that is identical to its parent plant. Planting peony seeds will result in new cultivars. The photos and videos show a traditional herbaceous peony, the same rules apply to dividing woodland peonies.

Peonies do not need to be divided. They can be planted and left in the same location for decades and will do incredibly well as long as they continue to get ample light, have minimal root competition, and the soil has good drainage. Propagation is simply a means to get more peonies. Scroll down for more information on each type of peony.

When dividing a woodland peony, wash the dirt off the roots. The root has four parts: large tuberous roots, small fibrous roots, a connective crown, and eyes at the top of the crown. Rinse off the peony so you can see the plant clearly. Divide the plant into pieces by carefully cutting through the crown. Each piece should have at least one strong tuberous root and 3-5 eyes in the top of the crown. Plant each peony according to the details on the Planting Instructions page.