Herbaceous Peony CARE GUIDE

Herbaceous Peonies, the most well-known type of peony, produce some of the best cut flowers available. At Peony’s Envy, we apply best practices to the planting and growing of all our herbaceous peonies. They require full sun, rich soil, good drainage, and sufficient water. They bloom during the transition from spring into summer; with very early to very late cultivars available. Each individual cultivar blooms for an average of 5-7 days. The foliage of shining green leaves remains throughout the summer, dies back to the ground in winter, and reemerges early each spring. Peonies have been cultivated for centuries; thus, a curated collection of distinct herbaceous cultivars can offer both extended bloom time and an astounding array of flower form, color, and degree of fragrance.

Chapters - Jump to a Section

How Do You Plant and Care for Herbaceous Peonies?

Herbaceous peonies can be planted in both spring and fall. Like most long-lived perennials, they take three years to bloom prolifically. They are worth the wait! Peonies thrive in horticultural zones 3-8. Typically, peak bloom occurs in mid-May in the southern zones, late-May in the mid zones, and early-June in the colder zones. Peonies are a mainstay in every garden, the best cut flower available, and can be passed down through generations since they live for centuries. Looking for information on other types of peonies? We offer complete guides for:

• Intersectional Peony Care

• Woodland Peony Care

• Tree Peony Care

What Peonies Need

Horticultural Zones 3-8 | Full Sun | Good Drainage | Sufficient Water| Rich Soil | Neutral pH

New herbaceous peony plants should be planted 2.5 to 3 feet apart on center, and approximately 1.5 feet from any edge or border. Once you have determined the site, measure the space you have available. If you are planting one plant, then your calculations are simple; if you are designing a larger garden, scroll down for our recommendations. Think long-term when you are laying out your peony garden. Peonies will take about three years to mature. In return, they will live happily with minimal care for decades.

Long Hedge - 25+ Plants

Cut Flower Garden

Cut flower growing is a true art; the planting and planning is no exception. The plan below is one that is often used by cut flower growers as it allows access to all of the plants in the least amount of space. When creating rows, they should be far enough apart to accommodate whatever farming equipment you have: tillers, mowers, tractors, etc.

Tips for Fall

Fall planting occurs from late August until the ground freezes solid for winter.

• PEONIES ARE COLD-HARDY PERENNIALS. As with all cold-hardy plants, fall is the traditional time to plant and, historically, the only time peony roots were available. Plant your peonies immediately upon receipt.

• Especially in colder climates, horticultural zones 5-3, newly planted peony roots can be affected by frost heave. Check to make sure the roots remain underground as planted. Any peonies dislocated by frost heave should be replanted.

• Do not mulch your peonies; they need the cold to flower, and mulch will insulate peonies from the cold.

New herbaceous peony plants should be planted 2.5 to 3 feet apart on center, and approximately 1.5 feet from any edge. To plant, start by digging a hole one foot deep and one foot in diameter. Amend your soil, as mentioned below. Plant so that 0.5 to 2 inches of soil covers the top of the root—peonies should be shallower in warmer zones and planted deeper in colder zones. For example, zones 7-8 will plant peonies at 0.5 inches below the surface of the soil, zones 5-6 will plant at 1 inch, and zones 3-4 will plant at 2 inches. Planted too deeply, flowers will not develop; too shallowly, and the tops of the eyes will freeze, dry out, and die.

Planting depth matters! This follows the Goldilocks principle: not too deep and not too shallow. Too deep and it won’t flower. Too shallow, it will dry out and die. Press down on the soil to remove air pockets around the root, and lift the root as necessary to ensure proper depth. Check your peonies after the first hard rain to ensure proper depth. Watch for frost heaving in the first year after planting.

Peonies in Pots

We do not recommend planting peonies in pots. Peonies do best when planted in the ground. Peonies are long-term perennials that will live for generations. Plant them in the ground. Even if you are in a temporary location, plant your peonies in the ground. See the section below on transplanting for more information. If you cannot plant in the ground, build raised beds. See the section below on building raised beds.

Preparing a bed

With soil amendments in mind, you have the options to dig individual holes or prepare an entire bed. Both require the soil to be amended to a depth of one foot. In all cases, after planting, get in the habit of lightly top dressing with compost quarterly, more often in sandy soils.

When growing peonies en masse in a home garden, staking becomes more creative. This can be as simple as lines of steel stakes tied with heavyweight cotton twill, or grapevine poly monofilament attached to wooden posts, or as complex as grids made of bamboo attached to the top of steel legs or wooden posts. Below are photos of our Display Garden with steel stakes and wooden posts. We source our cotton twill in bulk from The Ribbon Factory. Our poly monofilament comes from Agtec. Peonies will often lean toward the side with more sun. In an open field in the northern hemisphere, this will be to the south. Staking peonies can reduce airflow through the plant, and thus promote disease. After peonies have bloomed, remove staking to increase airflow.

Staking Options for Herbaceous Peonies

The graphics below show growth expectations for herbaceous peonies. Peonies are very resilient and hardy, but do take time to establish and become mature flowering plants - they are worth the wait. They typically take three springs to mature. The first year is all about the root. You may get a flower, but typically the plant only produces green shoots. In rare occasions, the first year, the root may not produce any growth above ground. Herbaceous peonies will mature to 3 feet wide, with more flowers and more stems being produced each year.

In this chapter, we divide herbaceous peonies into subgroups. All peonies are beautiful, and it is hard to go wrong, but if you are looking to have more than a standard peony garden, this is your section. The history and hybridization of each peony influence how it behaves in the garden. The main groups of herbaceous peonies are as follows:

• Classic Herbaceous Peonies (Lactiflora)

• Fern Leaf (Tenuifolia hybrids)

• Coral (Peregrina hybrids),

• True Red (officinalis hybrids)

We will review the characteristics of each type below, with suggestions on how to choose cultivars. We will start with the largest group, the classic herbaceous peonies - the Lactifloras.

Using Classic Herbaceous Peonies (Lactiflora)

The species Paeonia lactiflora is the quintessential peony that most people know and love. Native to Central and Eastern Asia, this peony is typically full, blousy, and fragrant. The species has been bred for centuries throughout the world, creating a massive variety of cultivars. The color ranges from snow white to deep burgundy (they tend not to produce good yellow, oranges, or true reds). These colors blend easily together, as they are all part of the magenta color spectrum, which makes it easy to create beautiful mixed plantings of different cultivars. One of the most impressive features of this group is that it includes every single flower form known to peonies. This aspect of the group's diversity leads to different behavior in the garden. The plants traditionally known to US gardeners were actually cultivated as cut flowers. Their long stems, with 5 flowers per stalk, create gigantic flowers that are ideal cut flowers. Unfortunately, this also makes the flowers so heavy that they often end up on the ground. There is, however, a whole set of peonies in this group that have been bred as landscape plants. These cultivars either have large, full flowers with incredibly sturdy stems, or they have lighter flowers with fewer petals that can remain upright. We find this difference in use incredibly important.

Flower Form

Flower form and peony height influence the behavior of herbaceous peony plants. Traditional peonies, such as those that can be found in your grandmother's garden, were often bred to have long stems and huge, full flowers. These enormous blossoms produce some of the best cut flowers available. As garden plants, these peonies tend to bend under the weight of the flowers and require staking to remain upright. Plants with these characteristics include those of chrysanthemum, rose, golden circle, crown, and hundred proliferate flower forms, and have innumerable dense petals. Lighter flower forms, such as anemone, single, and lotus, tend to float above the plant, requiring far less support. However, due to their smaller number of petals, these flowers do not last as long in the hot sun, nor are they the best cut flower varieties.

Flower Color

• White, blush, and pink are all typically very fragrant. We offer many varieties of white peonies for sale. We also have a broad selection of pink peonies for sale.

• Magenta is often referred to as red in peony culture, but actually ranges from very dark pink to purple-red and does not include true red cultivars.

• Merlot red peonies are occasionally classified as black; these are the darkest peonies

• Multi colored peonies have a combination of two or more distinct colors. Typically, the alternate color is yellow, but it is occasionally white.

• Green peonies are less common.

• Yellow herbaceous peonies are uncommon. They tend to be weak and slow-growing. Strong yellows exist in intersectional and tree peonies. Cream colored peonies are often classified as yellow but are not actually yellow in color.

• True red only exists in the herbaceous peony hybrids, created by crossing different parent species.

• Coral only exists in the herbaceous peony hybrids, created by crossing different parent species. They often fade to cream as they open. Tend to have strong stems

Bloom Time

• The bloom times listed in our catalog are relative to other herbaceous peonies. All herbaceous peonies will bloom within a 4-week window. Each individual plant will bloom for 7-10 days within that period. The timing of this period is based on your location. Here in NJ, our herbaceous peony bloom is typically from around May 10 to June 10. South of here will have an earlier bloom, and north will have a later bloom.

• The lactiflora group will have bloom times that range from early to late. Very early cultivars are typically hybrids; these are discussed below.

Using Fern Leaf Herbaceous Peonies

Fern leaf peonies are a subset of herbaceous peonies that are hybrids of the peony species Tenuifolia. This species is known for its vibrant red single flower, incredibly slender fern-like leaves, short stature, and very early bloom time. Tenuifolia is native to southeast Europe in dry, rocky, sandy soil, making it well-suited for rock gardens. Hybrids of this species tend to have a leaf that is not quite as dissected as Tenuifolia but still carries some of this fern-like appearance. Examples are Early Scout, Merry Mayshine, Little Ted gem, and Smouthii. The species Tenuifolia should be planted in well-draining sandy soil, similar to that of a rock garden. In dry climates, the plant may go dormant earlier than other peonies. The hybrids of Tenuifolia can be planted much like traditional herbaceous peonies. Note, however, that they will present a different leaf appearance, will tend to bloom earlier, and will be slightly shorter than their Lactiflora cousins.

Using Coral Herbaceous Peonies

Coral peonies are a special subset of herbaceous peonies that are actually hybrids, or crosses, between two different herbaceous peonies, peregrina & lactiflora. This cross has produced unique colors not often found in traditional peonies. The unique characteristics of these hybrids are that they have just one flower on a rather sturdy stem. This makes them excellent cut flowers and amazing garden plants as they remain upright in the garden without staking. They also bloom before traditional herbaceous peonies, making them a great way to extend your peony bloom. Live in the south? This early bloom time is also perfect for your climate! Coral herbaceous peonies are one of our favorite types of peonies to plant en masse. Their strong flower stems hold the flowers high above the plants in waves of coral to cream. The color of this subset of herbaceous peonies changes dramatically as they open - as you can see in the above picture of Coral Charm. The flowers begin as a deep coral bud and then fade to cream. When planted in a large group, these waves of color are simply breathtaking.

Using True Red Herbaceous Peonies

True red can be hard to come by in peonies. Often, you think you have found it, and the plant turns out to be magenta. There is a wonderful set of herbaceous hybrids, similar to the coral peonies, that produce outstanding true red cultivars. These flowers tend to be simpler in form. They either have bright contrasting yellow centers or the spiky inner petals known as an anemone flower form. These cultivars stand upright in the garden without staking, having light flowers on sturdy stems. They are the perfect plants to add some pop to the garden. Like coral peonies, these cultivars look especially dramatic when planted in large groups. This can be a group of all one cultivar or of multiple cultivars all in this true red range. For a stunning look, we suggest planting a row of traditional white herbaceous peonies, such as festiva maxima, in the back with a row of one of the true red herbaceous peonies in the front. This combination is sure to impress.

Herbaceous peonies grow well in horticultural zones 3-8. If you are in the northern, central, or northwest sections of the United States, choose your peonies with abandon. All peonies will grow well in your garden. Special considerations should be taken for zone 8 in the southern United States, where you experience early spring heat. Unsure of your horticultural zone? Click here to go to the USDA website, where you can enter your zip code to determine your zone. Please note that all herbaceous peonies grow well in the Pacific Northwest, despite the warmer zones along the coast. That area does not typically get the early spring heat that can make it important to choose your herbaceous peonies carefully, as in the south. These tips may help enhance your bloom in the Southern part of the United States, in herbaceous Zone 8:

1. Choose plants with very early or early bloom times. Choose mid-late-blooming cultivars with care, and avoid all late-blooming cultivars. You can view our list of recommended catalogs in our Herbaceous Peony Catalog.

2. Cover the eyes on the roots with only half an inch of soil, and never ever mulch. Be careful not to plant the top of the cultivars too deeply or not deeply enough - too deep and they won’t flower, not deep enough and they may dehydrate and die.

3. If you experience an especially warm winter, you may consider icing your peonies from late-December through mid-February. The ice acts as snow and provides winter chill if done routinely. The video above gives a few tips on how to ice peonies.

4. Although herbaceous peonies don’t typically thrive in Zone 9, if you’ve moved south and are missing this part of your northern garden, try these icing tips as well. Please note that this is experimental and may not work in your area. Also consider Intersectional Peonies as they grow well in Zone 9.

Garden Cleanup

Staking

See our section on staking above.

Feeding Peonies

Planted in full sun with rich soil and great drainage, herbaceous peonies can thrive almost entirely on their own as the nutrient cycle is self-sustaining. Nonetheless, a little food will help keep your peonies healthy and floriferous. Feed lightly three times a year: in the fall when you clean up your garden and prepare plants for winter, in early spring just as shoots emerge, and again in early summer after plants have bloomed. Testing your soil periodically will help you know what nutrients are needed most. Here is a link to the Rutgers site that we use in NJ. If you are in another state, please refer to your agricultural extension office for help.

• Compost: At our peony farm, we primarily use locally-sourced compost, Neptune’s Harvest Fish and Seaweed Emulsion, and OMRI-certified worm castings. When applying compost, thin layers are better than thick. Remember to apply at the drip line and not over the center of the plant as applying on the root will bury the plant too deeply and eventually prevent flowering.

• Foliar Feeds: know that plants also absorb nutrients through their leaf surfaces. Liquid fertilizers, such as Neptune's Harvest Fish and Seaweed Fertilizer or Nature’s Source plant food. We recommend foliar feeding in early spring just before peonies set their buds.

• Worm Castings: When first planting and to reinvigorate a garden after long-term neglect, we recommend using worm castings as an extra boost. It is garden gold, and a little goes a long way.

If you choose to use synthetic or partially synthetic fertilizers, choose one that is well-balanced and releases nutrients at a slow rate. A 10-10-10 fertilizer is best for spring and summer, and a 5-10-10 is best for fall.

Peonies like heavy infrequent soakings; when irrigation is necessary, consider drip lines instead of overhead sprinkler systems. During the first growing season after planting a new peony, ensure it gets a good soaking at least once a week, especially in the heat of summer. Weekly soakings keep the plant from being stressed by drought as it develops its fibrous root system. However, remember that peonies do not like wet feet. Be careful not to overwater. Overwatering or the use of foliar/overhead sprinkler systems can cause disease. Your peony should be planted in well-draining soil so that the water does not pool around the plant. Established peonies require less supplemental watering but still benefit from heavy infrequent soakings, especially in times of drought and in the heat of summer. Herbaceous leaves should stay green until fall. If leaves turn brown prematurely, it is typically a sign of insufficient water. Leaves and stems turning black, having black splotches, or being covered in white powder are indicative of disease.

Do Not Add Mulch or Use Weed Suppressants

Do not mulch your herbaceous peonies! Mulch will bury the crown of the peony too deeply and eventually cause it not to flower. If you have added mulch over time, it is best to check the depth of your peonies and remove any mulch that covers the plant. Instead, weed around your peonies. The shade from mature peonies will act as a weed suppressant, but you will need to keep the area to the edge of the dripline free of weeds and grass. You can underplant your peonies with spring bulbs and ground covers, like miniature daffodils, crocus, and lily of the valley. They bloom before peonies, don't compete with them, and provide a nice groundcover that reduces weeds. As your groundcover matures, make sure to keep the base of each peony clear to discourage competition. Be careful not to plant anything large or that is particularly invasive around your peonies, or anything that will compete with your peonies and cause them to suffer. A caution about herbicides and drift: when herbicides are used to treat one area of the garden, they can run off through the groundwater or spread in the wind and damage peony plants.

Watch for Disease

View our section on disease below.

Deadheading Peonies

Deadheading is often done for aesthetic reasons. However, if you have peonies that don’t shed their petals, it is important to deadhead or remove the petals by hand as any remaining petals can allow various fungi to take hold. If you have had exceptionally wet weather, this becomes even more important. When deadheading, cut the stem of the herbaceous peony back to the first set of true compound leaves. If you are interested in collecting and propagating seeds, you should not deadhead (remove petals by hand without cutting the stem or removing the seedpod). Note that not all peonies produce viable seeds. Please see the section below on Propagating Peonies for information on what viable seeds look like.

When to Cut Back Herbaceous Peonies

Herbaceous peonies should be cut to the ground in early fall. Exactly when to do this depends on how your peonies are looking. If the leaves are still healthy and shiny, leave them for now. If they are looking lackluster, are dotted with brown spots, have turned brown, or are covered in a white mold, cut them to the ground now to remove any disease from the garden. (If you are interested in learning more about the diseases that cause these issues, click the links in the last sentence.) You want to keep leaves as long as you can, but as the leaves fade or show signs of disease they are no longer photosynthesizing sunlight into sugar and should be removed. Early decline is common in newly planted peonies. They are not dead, they just fade early. Cut back your herbaceous peony stems so they are two to three inches above the ground and throw away the leaves. Leaves should not be composted in your home garden compost because it does not get hot enough to kill fungal spores and bacteria that may be on your peony leaves.

CAUTION: Only cut back your herbaceous peonies. Do not cut back your tree peonies! They have a woody structure that must remain intact. See our tree peony care page for details.

Additional Fall Care (see above for even more details)

• Clean up the area around your peonies to increase air flow and reduce weeds and weed seeds.

• Add compost and other soil amendments at the drip line to nourish your peonies through the winter.

• Check the planting depth of your peonies. The crowns should remain 0.5 to 2 inches below the surface of the soil, depending on your horticultural zone.

• Ensure your peonies have sufficient water, but not too much water. If your peonies have turned brown early, this can be a sign of dehydration. Ensure your peony roots receive sufficient water throughout the rest of the season and plan ahead for next year. Peonies like heavy, infrequent soakings. Be careful not to overwater as this can cause disease.

Where and How Much to Cut

When cutting plants of any type, it is important to never cut off more than a third of the greenery, as any more than this will have detrimental effects on the plant. Following the logic of the rule of thirds, you can take a higher number of flowers with short stems than you can flowers with long stems. When cutting, we try to leave as many of the leaves on the plant as possible to ensure that the plant can store enough energy through photosynthesis that it can produce healthy flowers the following year. Different cultivars will have slightly different stem lengths, as some produce flowers right above the greenery while others have flowers that tower a few feet above the plant.

The diagram below outlines how to get the maximum number of flowers, including the most with long stems (figure C).

Storing Your Cut Peonies

Cut peonies are fantastic in that they can be stored in refrigeration for weeks or months and shipped around the world without water. One of the most important steps in this process is to cut them at the optimal time, see the section above for details. You will also need to remove the lower leaves on the flowers. It is best to only keep the leaves that you need for your desired aesthetic. Any additional leaves will cause the bud to dehydrate. They are also often the source of mold. Peonies can be stored in the refrigerator for up to six months in the bud stage. Place them in a vase with water, protected by a flower sleeve, with only the stems (not leaves) in the water - continually change out the water, making sure that the water stays clean, clear, and free of mold. They can also be stored in the refrigerator without water, placed on their side, wrapped in newspaper for a few weeks. They will rehydrate when placed in water. Note that the flowers will dehydrate in a frost-free refrigerator; flowers should be stored in an old-fashioned refrigerator or a floral refrigerator. On both methods, watch for any mold or fungus and remove these portions as soon as they are spotted. Note that peonies stored for a long period of time will open faster and not last as long. It takes practice to store peonies successfully, so try it this year and see how long you can keep your peonies. We do not use any flower food in our bouquets and instead focus on changing the water frequently to keep it clean, clear, and free of mold.

Ants

If you are worried about ants when bringing cut flowers into the house, simply cut the flowers when the buds are still closed, making it easy to shake off the ants. Also, if you cut your flowers in the early morning or evening, there are often fewer ants on the buds.

Lactiflora Growth and Cut Flowers

There are many different species of herbaceous peonies. One such type that is widely cultivated is the Lactiflora Peony. Varieties that have strong Lactiflora parentage will typically have five flowers per stem, instead of a single stem like those with strong Officianalis parentage. Simply put, Lactiflora species peonies are native to Central China, while Officinalis peonies are native to Western Europe and thus have different growth characteristics. When using peonies with strong Lactiflora parentage, many commercial cut flower growers will sell the center flower with a long stem for a higher price and sell the side buds with a slightly shorter stem for a reduced price. They don't pinch the buds of the side flowers, as this does not increase the size of the center bud and only serves to reduce their harvest.

Peonies are very resilient plants that typically thrive and grow without incident. However, every once in a while, a fungus or virus may take hold and impact the health of your peony plants. Although infections generally start in early spring, they often go unnoticed until later in the summer. Left unchecked, these diseases can do real damage to your peonies.

Powdery Mildew - Erysiphales (Fungus)

If you are experiencing a white powder-like covering on the leaves of your peony, you have powdery mildew in your garden.

• SYMPTOMS: Leaves turn white. Onset is in late June through September. It is not fatal, and tree peonies are less prone than herbaceous or intersectional peonies to this fungus. In some years, powdery mildew is worse than in others. It can infect plants when there are hot days, high humidity, and cool nights. Once the plant is infected, there are virtually no sprays or oils that will completely rid the plant of powdery mildew this year. However, there are some preventative remedies to keep your plants from getting powdery mildew in the coming years.

• TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to the agricultural university’s plant diagnostic center in your state for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At our peony farm, we use:

  • Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES

  • Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic

• OUTLOOK: Considered more unsightly than harmful in peonies.

• TREATMENT: Bacillus subtilis to boost plant's natural defenses; neem oil or other horticultural oils after the leaves have formed; baking soda spray (1t baking soda, 1qt. water and a few drops of liquid soap) on the soil in early spring and on the plant itself in the summer; rhubarb leaf tea; cornmeal as a soil amendment; or mixed as a spray; products containing sulfur, or a biofungicide recommended to treat powdery mildew on peonies;. All treatmens should be used according to package directions, and remedies should be tried on portions of the plant prior to making large-scale applications. Another good natural preventative remedy is to regularly spray a solution of 30% milk to 70% water on your plants on sunny days. This helps not only peonies, but all plants susceptible to powdery mildew. Consider treateing again, early next spring, as plants emerge to prevent reinfection.

• PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where the soil floods. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants, especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

Botrytis - Botrytis paeoniae (Fungus)

• SYMPTOMS: Stalks wilt and die, buds turn black. Onset is typically in early spring but can be at any time when temperatures remain below 70 degrees. Botrytis is especially prevalent when the weather is cool, wet, and humid. Botrytis is common and, when seen in your garden, can persist for years through spores in the soil.

• TESTING: When the cause of a problem is not clear, sending a sample to your state's agricultural university plant diagnostic center is the most reliable way to get answers. A laboratory diagnosis identifies the specific pathogen involved and comes with treatment recommendations grounded in what your plants are actually dealing with rather than general advice. We use:

  • Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES

  • Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic

• OUTLOOK: Botrytis is easy to treat but can kill peonies and other plants when not treated, so it is especially important to pay attention to signs of the fungus.

• TREATMENT: At the first sign of disease, remove the affected portions of the plant immediately using clean pruners. Dip the blades into a 10% bleach solution between every cut, or use Clorox wipes as an alternative, to make sure the cutting tool does not carry the problem from one part of the plant to another. Dispose of everything you remove in the trash rather than the compost pile, where disease can survive and spread to other parts of the garden. A more aggressive option would be to use systemic fungicide labeled for use on peonies. The cooperative extension service of New Jersey recommends Ferban and Manebrom. Griffin Greenhouse Supply recommends products including Cease, Daconil, Medallion, and Veranda-O. Follow label instructions carefully and test fungicides on one plant before making large-scale applications. Continue to treat according to the label instructions as the disease persists. There are OMRI-approved fungicides for the treatment of botrytis.

• PREVENTION: Strong, healthy peonies begin with decisions made before planting, not after problems appear. Selecting a site with full sun, preparing soil for both drainage and fertility, and planning spacing that allows air to move freely through the planting are all preventive measures that reduce disease pressure across the entire growing season. Three feet between plants is the minimum spacing needed for adequate airflow, and the ground around each plant should stay clear of weeds and organic debris that hold moisture against the crown. Water when the plant needs it and not before, always at ground level in the morning using drip irrigation, and never by any method that wets the leaves or runs into the evening hours. Low spots in the garden where rainwater collects are unsuitable for peonies, regardless of any other conditions present. Incorporate compost into the planting bed to establish good soil structure and nutrition from the start, and replenish it over time to maintain fertility. The weeks of early spring, when rain is frequent and temperatures are still cool, are the period when fungal and viral problems are most likely to develop, so monitor plants closely during that window.

Peony Blotch/Red Spot/Measles - Cladosporium paeoniae (Fungus)

• SYMPTOMS: Small circular spots begin to appear in spring just before the plants flower. The spots will increase in size and are not often detected until mid-summer. If left unchecked, spots can eventually cover the whole plant.

• TESTING: Accurate identification is the first step toward effective treatment, and a laboratory diagnosis removes any uncertainty about what you are seeing. Your state's agricultural university runs a plant diagnostic center that accepts samples from home gardeners and returns confirmed findings along with specific treatment recommendations based on the actual pathogen involved. We recommend:

  • Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES

  • Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic

• OUTLOOK: Does not immediately kill the plant but successive years of the fungal disease will impact the health of the plant.

• TREATMENT: When noticed, cut off diseased portions of the plant, dipping the pruners in a 10% solution of bleach (or use Clorox wipes) between each cut to ensure the disease does not spread. Clean up all debris around the plants, and throw all of this matter away - do not compost. Use a fungicide that is intended for Peony Blotch on peonies, apply according to the manufacturer's instructions.

• PREVENTION: The foundation of disease prevention in peonies is a growing environment that gives the plant everything it needs to stay strong. Full sun, well-prepared soil, careful watering, and room for air to move around each plant reduce the conditions that pathogens depend on to take hold. Plant with at least three feet between each peony, and keep the ground around the base clear of weeds and fallen debris throughout the growing season. Water at the soil level in the morning using drip irrigation, and never use overhead watering or water late in the day when moisture cannot evaporate before nightfall. Choose planting sites carefully and avoid any area where standing water collects after heavy rain. Before planting, work the soil thoroughly to improve both drainage and fertility, and add compost to establish a nutritional base that supports long-term plant health. Once the season gets underway, keep a close watch on foliage during the wet weeks of early spring, when the combination of cool temperatures and consistent moisture gives fungi and viruses their best opportunity to spread.

Phytophthora Blight - Phytophthora cactorum (Fungus)

• SYMPTOMS: Phytophthora blight is a soil-borne fungus. The stems at the base of the plant will begin to darken and then wilt and die. Leaves may appear drought-stressed. The entire plant may rot, making it easy to pull from the ground. The fungus can survive in the soil for years as long as moist conditions persist. Can be spread by garden tools and contaminated soil. Symptoms are often more evident during periods of low rainfall, making it easy to confuse the onset of this disease with drought.

• TESTING: Taking the guesswork out of disease identification is always worth the effort. Every state has a plant diagnostic center affiliated with its agricultural university where you can send a sample and receive a confirmed laboratory diagnosis along with treatment recommendations tailored to what your plants are actually facing. We use:

  • Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES

  • Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic

• OUTLOOK: Phytophthora can kill peonies and other plants.

• TREATMENT: When noticed, cut off diseased portions of the plant, dipping the pruners in a 10% solution of bleach (or use Clorox wipes) between each cut to ensure the disease does not spread. Clean up all debris around the plants, and throw all of this matter away - do not compost. Rutgers Diagnostic Lab notes that the fungicide Subdue can be used to treat Phytophthora on peonies, and apply according to the manufacturer's instructions. Be sure to treat both the plant and the soil. Improve soil drainage and prevent water from pooling near plants.

• PREVENTION: A peony's ability to resist disease is directly tied to the quality of its growing conditions. Sun exposure, soil fertility, water management, and airflow all play a role, and getting all four right from the start is the most effective disease prevention available. Keep plants spaced at least three feet apart so air moves freely between them, and clear weeds and debris from the base of each plant throughout the season. When watering is necessary, do it at the root level in the morning with drip irrigation and avoid any method that wets the foliage, particularly in the evening. Site selection matters as well: areas where water pools after rain are poor choices for peonies, regardless of how well the soil is otherwise prepared. Work compost into the bed before planting to build fertility and improve drainage, and maintain that organic matter over time to keep the soil in good condition. Pay closest attention to your plants in early spring, when cool, wet weather creates the conditions that fungi and viruses need to establish.

Sclerotinia Rot/Southern Blight (Fungus)

• SYMPTOMS: Sclerotinia Rot is a soil-borne fungus. Rot begins at the base of the plant with water-soaked stem lesions. Leaves will turn yellow and die. During times of high humidity, a white cotton-like fungus spreads around the base of the plant and the soil. The fungal fruiting bodies appear like small collections of mustard seeds on the ground near the base of the plant. They may eventually form a crust on the soil.

• TESTING: Before treating any disease, knowing exactly what you are dealing with will produce better results than guessing. Most states have a plant diagnostic center through their agricultural university, and sending a sample there will get you a laboratory diagnosis along with treatment recommendations specific to what your plants are actually showing. We use:

  • Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES

  • Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic

• OUTLOOK: Sclerotina can kill peonies and other plants.

• TREATMENT: For sclerotinia rot specifically, the Rutgers Diagnostic Lab recommends Heritage or Headway as effective treatments. Follow the manufacturer's directions precisely and apply to both the plant and the surrounding soil, not the foliage alone. If treatment does not resolve the problem, remove the affected plants along with the soil immediately surrounding them and dispose of everything away from the garden. Do not add diseased material to a compost pile. Sterilize any tools that came into contact with the affected area before using them elsewhere in the garden. Lay clear plastic over the exposed soil and leave it in place for two to three months during the hottest part of summer, allowing heat to build up and address remaining pathogens in the ground. Once that period has passed, improve drainage in the area before doing anything else, then leave the soil fallow for a full season before considering replanting.

• PREVENTION: Disease resistance in peonies starts with the conditions you create before the plant goes into the ground. Good drainage, nutritious soil, adequate sun, and consistent air movement around each plant are the four factors that determine how well a peony holds up across the growing season. Space plants a minimum of three feet apart to keep air circulating freely through the foliage, and remove weeds and debris from the base of each plant regularly. Water at the root level in the morning using drip irrigation, never overhead, and never in the evening when moisture sits on the foliage overnight. Avoid low-lying areas where water collects after rain, as saturated soil is one of the most common causes of root and crown disease in peonies. Prepare the soil thoroughly before planting by amending for drainage and fertility, and incorporate compost to build long-term nutritional quality. During early spring, when wet weather creates ideal conditions for fungal and viral spread, check plants frequently and address any early signs of trouble before they take hold.

Viral Diseases

Peonies are also susceptible to a small number of viruses, including peony ringspot virus, leaf curl, Le Moine disease, and the mosaic virus. These are rare, difficult to cure, and it is generally recommended to remove infected plants from your garden.

• SYMPTOMS: Poor growth and stunted growth. Leaves will have a mottled/mosaic appearance. Portions of the leaves can turn yellow and die. Can be spread by insects or tools.

• TESTING: To ensure an accurate identification of any issues, we highly recommend professional testing. For a precise laboratory diagnosis and specific treatment advice, please submit a sample to your state agricultural university's plant diagnostic center.

• We recommend and use:

  • Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES

  • Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic

• OUTLOOK: Viral diseases can kill peonies and other plants. Remove and dispose of infected plants; do not compost.

• PREVENTION: Vigorous peonies possess a natural resistance to illness. To keep them thriving, provide the necessary balance of sunlight, rich soil, consistent air flow, and appropriate hydration. Maintaining at least 3 feet of space between each plant and keeping the base clear of weeds will significantly improve air circulation. When watering is required, utilize drip irrigation during the morning hours, making sure to avoid both nighttime watering and overhead systems. It is vital to avoid planting in flood-prone, low-lying spots. Before you begin planting, prepare the site by amending the soil to ensure it is both well-draining and nutrient-rich, using compost as a primary amendment. Monitor your peonies closely, particularly as fungi and viruses are most likely to emerge during the wet conditions of early spring.

Peonies Turning Brown

All herbaceous peonies turn brown and die back in the fall. If your peonies have turned brown in the summer, this can be a sign of dehydration. Ensure your peony roots receive sufficient water throughout the rest of the season and plan ahead for next year. Peonies like heavy, infrequent soakings. Be careful not to overwater as this can cause disease. Click here for more information on watering your peonies.

Another common cause of your peonies turning brown prematurely can be dog pee. Plants along thoroughfares or on corners can turn into marking posts for the local dog population; this can cause your peonies to suffer or die.  Also consider pesticide drift. If you, or your neighbor, have treated your lawn or garden with any herbicides, these could have drifted and affected your peonies. We have had countless customers send their peonies away to their local agricultural extension for fungal analysis, only to find that the herbicide was the culprit.

Peonies Not Blooming

Peonies take time to become established. It is normal for a newly planted peony not to bloom the first year or two after planting. Peonies follow the well-known perennial truisms: first year sleep, second year creep, third year leap, or first year roots, second year shoots, third year flowers. They are well worth the wait. If you have old, established peonies that have beautiful green leaves and no flowers, it is often a problem with planting depth. This can be due to several reasons, such as mulching or a shift in the soil in the garden. Peonies are very sensitive to planting depth. If the plant becomes too deep, as it does when mulched, the shoots (called eyes) that form at the top of the root (the crown) do not get their proper "winter chill" and cannot form flower buds. This lack of winter chill is why peonies do not grow in places such as Florida or Southern California. If you have peonies that are not blooming, check the depth of your plant by delicately moving a bit of the soil from the top portion of the plant, being careful not to break off the delicate pink eyes. The top of the root should be from 0.5 to 1.5 inches below the surface of the soil. For details on the exact planting depth for your area, see the Planting section. If you find your peony to be too deep, it will need to be lifted. Transplanting is best done in the fall; moving it in the fall will also ensure that it gets the proper winter chill in the following season. Note that the first year after it is transplanted, it may not bloom as peonies take a year to recover from being transplanted. Don't worry, they are well worth the wait and will live for hundreds of years.

Another possibility that should not be ruled out is the amount of sunlight. Over time, surrounding trees and shrubs can shade out your peonies, resulting in fewer and fewer flowers. The more sun you have, the more flowers you will get. If your buds were fully formed and then turned brown before they opened, this could be a sign of botrytis, or it can just be a sign of exceptionally wet weather. If you have had exceptionally wet weather, be sure to deadhead all of your peonies once they have bloomed and remove all flower petals. Any remaining petals can stick to the leaves and allow various fungi to take hold. We have found that late-blooming herbaceous peonies are more susceptible to not opening in times of extreme wetness or drought than earlier-blooming peonies. If the overall health of your plant is declining, check planting depth, the amount of water, competition of roots, depletion of nutrients in the soil, or note if the area has flooded recently. It may be time to transplant your peony to a new location. Wet soil is a common factor in unhealthy peonies. It is possible to divide your peony when you transplant it by following the instructions below. Plant divided roots in a new section of the garden so the soil in the former location can recover.

Bud-Blast

A wide variety of stressors can prevent peony buds from opening. This can include having immature plants, plants being buried too deeply, poor soil, excessive mulch, excessive moisture, not enough sun, and early spring frosts. Examine all of these factors and adjust as you can. A good place to start is to check the depth of your peony and adjust if necessary, see the section above on Planting for more information on depth.

Chafer Beetles

Ants on Peonies

We have heard for generations that ants are necessary for peonies to flower. This is only part of the whole story. Peonies, as noted above, are attacked by chafer beetles which damage the buds and prevent peonies from flowering. Ants have evolved as the natural predator. Peonies secrete a sweet nectar, ants are fed by this nectar and in return chase away the chafer beetles.

To prevent bringing in ants when you cut your peony flowers, cut them when they are still in bud. This also increases the longevity of your cut flowers, as they open more slowly in the cool of your house than in the heat of the outdoors.

If you are lucky enough to have mature peonies in your garden and they are blooming beautifully, first consider leaving them where they are, as peonies will sulk for a year or two after they are transplanted.

Transplanting - Option A - You have time and can do it the ideal way:

• The best time to transplant your peonies is in the fall when the plants are dormant.

• It is best to dig up your plants and replant them as soon as possible. Before you start digging up your peonies, prepare the new locations as mentioned in our Planting section.

• Begin by cutting back the stems as you would do in fall cleanup.

• We encourage you to divide the peony before replanting. Count the stems before digging to get even more out of your peony. Plan ahead and pre-dig your holes-know that for every three to five stems, you can have approximately one new peony. See details on propagating/dividing just below.

• To dig your peonies, lift them using a large garden fork. Begin at least eight inches from the base of the stem. Work your way around the plant and gently pry it from the ground. The roots are brittle and can easily be broken. Take care and try not to break the roots.

• Any time peonies are transplanted or divided, they take a few years to return to their previous grandeur. Watch for frost heaving in the winter and make sure they get adequate water during the growing season.

Transplanting - Option B - You are moving and have to do it now; timing is not on your side.

• Moving is a strenuous process. If you are making the effort to take your peonies with you, we want to help you get the most out of your legacy peonies

• Seasonal Tips:

  • Fall: If you move in fall, it is a good time to dig and divide. If you have time to dig your peonies from your old home and create a fabulous new garden in your new home, go for it! You amaze us! But more often than not, other things take precedent and you need a way to store your peonies until you can plant them properly. Read on for how to store them.

  • Spring or Summer: If you move in the spring or summer, then it is not a good time to dig or divide your peonies. If you can anticipate your move, you can dig your peonies the previous fall and store them as mentioned below. If it is very early spring and your peonies have not yet broken dormancy, then you can treat them as though you are digging them in the fall. If you don’t have either of these luxuries,  then dig them when you can dig them, knowing they will be a bit more knocked back by missing the growing season of spring or summer. Peonies are resilient. The tops of your plants may die back; this is ok. You can also cut them back if that is easier for moving. See below for how to store them until fall when you can divide and plant them properly.

  • Winter: If you are moving in winter, in northern regions, you need to plan ahead and pre-dig your peonies so they aren’t frozen in the ground. See below for how to store them. If you missed this window, you will need to make arrangements to dig your peonies once the ground thaws. Try to dig them as early as possible in the spring before they break dormancy (before the crocus start to bloom). If you catch them before they start growing, then you can treat them like you are digging and dividing in the fall. If this timing turns out to be late spring, see above.

• How to store your peonies:

  • Peonies can be held in 15-20 gallon plastic pots, bulb crates, or large fabric pots for a season or two. This is not a forever solution; this is just to get you through. If you have a lot of peonies, raised beds could be your best storage solution. Click here for how to build raised beds.

  • Fill your pots with high-quality potting soil or peat moss. Good drainage is essential! Do not use soil from the ground; your peonies will rot and die.

  • Remove as much of the original soil from around the peony as possible and put the entire plant in a pot. Cover the roots so the pink eyes (or the base of the stems) are covered with 1 inch of potting soil. See the Planting section above for planting depth details.

  • Water in well.

  • Store your pots/crates in an area of the garden with dappled shade so they get less water stress from the heat of the sun.

  • If you are storing during the growing season, be sure to water regularly. Peonies need good drainage, but should not be drought-stressed. In general, potted plants need a bit more water than plants in the ground.

  • If you are storing over winter, make sure your pots are stored in a way where they can drain. If in horticultural zones 3-5, consider heeling in your pots (grouping your pots together and mounding well-draining soil around the outside of the group for extra insulation - do not add soil to the tops of the pots, just the sides).

• What to do when the first fall arrives:

  • Divide your peonies the first fall after storing them. This will allow you to get the most out of your legacy peonies.

  • Take the time to plant them well! You have gone through all this work. Make sure to give them the best new home.

Propagating by Root Division

The easiest and most successful way of creating more peonies is to divide them. Root division, and/or grafting in the case of tree peonies, is the only way to create another plant that is identical to its parent plant. Planting peony seeds will result in new cultivars. Peonies do not need to be divided. They can be planted and left in the same location for decades and will do incredibly well as long as they continue to get ample light, have minimal root competition, and the soil has good drainage. Propagation is simply a means to get more peonies. Scroll down for more information on each type of peony. When dividing an herbaceous peony, wash the dirt off the roots. The root has four parts: large tuberous roots, small fibrous roots, a connective crown, and eyes at the top of the crown. Rinse off the peony so you can see the plant clearly. Divide the plant into pieces by carefully cutting through the crown. Each piece should have at least one strong tuberous root and 3-5 eyes in the top of the crown. Plant each herbaceous peony 3 feet apart, according to the details in the Planting Instructions section.

Propagating by Seed

If you are interested in propagating peonies from seeds, wait to see if a seedpod begins to form, as in the first picture below. Seeds will ripen and be ready to plant in early fall. Note that not all peonies can produce seeds, as the stamens have been diminished or lost in the hybridization process. If a peony is not able to produce seeds, the stem will not produce a seedpod. In this case, cut the stem back to the first set of true leaves to promote root growth. Note that to get a peony the same as another you currently grow, you must divide the root. If you are lucky enough, however, to have a variety of peonies that produce seeds, the seeds will produce peonies distinct from the parent. Plant the seeds one inch below the surface of the soil immediately after they ripen, like picture three. Plant them outside in similar conditions favored by the mother plants. Mark them well and wait. It may take two years for a seedling to emerge and as many as ten years for the plants to produce flowers. We often plant our seeds in bulb crates. This helps us keep track of their progress and makes them easy to transplant once they have grown.