Intersectional / Itoh Peony Design, planting, and Care

Intersectional Peonies, also known as Itoh Peonies, are hybrids created by crossing a tree peony and an herbaceous peony. These hybrids produce flowers and leaves reminiscent of the tree peony parent. However, the growth habits mimic the herbaceous parent, dying down to the ground in winter and reemerging green each spring. The plants produce some woody structure, but they remain low to the ground. Like their herbaceous parent, they prefer full sun, but grow well and produce a suitable number of flowers in dappled sunlight.

A mature intersectional peony will produce 50 or more dinner-plate sized flowers on strong short stems that do not require staking. They reach peak bloom near the end of the herbaceous peony bloom. Each plant can remain in bloom for 3-4 weeks, with new buds continually opening over this period. They can be used as cut flowers and offer a wide array of yellows and golds-colors not commonly available in herbaceous peonies. Intersectional peonies, on average, grow to approximately 2.5 feet tall. Their compact form is well suited to the front of the perennial border. They grow in zones 3-9. Lovely large flowers, available in a unique yellow-bronze colorway, nicely shaped plant, no staking required.

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New intersectional peony plants should be planted 3 to 4 feet apart on center, and approximately 1.5 feet from any edge or border. Once you have determined the site, measure the space you have available. If you are planting one plant, then your calculations are simple; if you are designing a larger garden, scroll down for our recommendations.

Think long-term when you are laying out your peony garden; they will take about three years to mature, and will live happily with minimal care for decades.

Intersectional Low Hedge

Pair with Herbaceous

When using intersectional peonies with herbaceous peonies place the intersectional peonies in front. This is a great way to extend your peony bloom as the intersectional peonies will continue to flower after your herbaceous peonies have faded.

Tips for Fall

Fall planting occurs from late August until the ground freezes solid for winter.

As with all cold-hardy plants, fall is the traditional time to plant and historically the only time peony roots were available. Thus, typically peonies are shipped bare root in the fall. They are freshly dug, and should be planted immediately.

PEONIES ARE COLD-HARDY PERENNIALS. They should be planted the first chance you can get a shovel in the ground, regardless of frost or freeze potential. Do not wait for the frost date to plant your peony roots.

PLANT THEM AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. Utilize the day or so between cold periods, when the ground is thawed enough to dig. New peonies are susceptible to frost heaving; any peonies heaved out of the ground should be put back to their original location. If it is too frozen to do so, they can be covered in place with soil until the ground thaws or taken in and placed in peat moss in the refrigerator until the ground thaws enough to dig. Do not mulch your peonies; they need the cold to flower in the spring, and mulch will insulate peonies from the cold.

Tips for Winter

Winter planting occurs from the time the ground freezes solid, until the time the ground starts to thaw.

Follow the same instructions for winter planting as you would for fall planting. Here are some additional tips for the winter months:

IF THE GROUND IS FROZEN SOLID at the time of purchase or delivery, it is best to store your peony roots in the fridge until you are ready to plant. Keep them in the bag as they came, do not add water.

PEONIES ARE COLD-HARDY PERENNIALS. Plant them the first day that the ground has thawed enough to get a shovel in the ground. Do not worry if the ground has the potential to freeze again, or if it will snow.

IF YOUR PEONIES HAVE SPROUTED, plant as above. Make sure to protect new shoots from frost, as they are more susceptible to frost damage if not planted the correct distance underground.

Tips for Spring

Spring planting occurs from the time the ground starts to thaw, through mid June.

PEONIES ARE COLD-HARDY PERENNIALS. They should be planted the first chance you can get a shovel in the ground, regardless of frost or freeze potential. Do not wait for the frost date to plant your peony roots. It is best to plant them while you still have cold or snowy days in the forecast.

IF THE GROUND IS FROZEN SOLID at the time of purchase or delivery, it is best to store your peony roots in the fridge. Plant them the first day that the ground is soft enough to dig, regardless of future temperatures. Keep them in the bag as they came, do not add water.

If you are planting bare-root peonies in spring, it is likely that your peonies will produce minimal growth above ground the first year. If you are planting peonies that have been grown in pots, there is potential that the buds will wither and the leaves will die back early. Don’t worry, this is normal. That said, diseases are more prevalent on peonies that have been planted in spring. Watch for botrytis and treat accordingly.

There is an old adage when planting perennials: "First year roots, second year shoots, third year flowers." Getting your peonies in in the spring gets a jump on things, giving your plant a good first spring of root development. Next year you are likely to have a reasonably sized peony with the potential of a flower or two.

New intersectional peony plants should be planted 3 to 4 feet apart on center, and approximately 1.5 feet from any edge.

To plant, start by digging a hole one foot deep and one and a half feet in diameter. Amend your soil, as mentioned below.

Plant so that 0.5 to 2 inches of soil cover the top of the root—peonies should be planted deeper in colder zones and shallower in warmer zones. For example, zones 7-8 will plant peonies at 0.5-inch, zones 5-6 will plant at 1 inch, and zones 2-4 will plant at 2 inches below the surface of the soil. Planted too deeply, flowers will not develop; too shallowly, and the tops of the eyes will freeze, dry out, and die.

Press down on the soil to remove air pockets around the root, and lift the root as necessary to ensure proper depth. Water in well, then again ensure proper depth.

During the first growing season after planting, ensure that your peony gets a good soaking every two to three weeks. In order to thrive in your garden, it must get this thorough soaking—without it, the peony’s fibrous roots will not establish themselves, and it won’t be able to absorb proper nutrients. Typically, rain is enough; however, in times of drought, in exceptionally hot weather, or if your peonies are planted in sandy soils, consider watering more frequently. Avoid overwatering, as too much water will invite both root rot and disease. We do not recommend planting peonies near automated watering systems.

Peonies in Pots

We do not recommend planting peonies in pots. They do best when planted in the ground. Peonies are long-term perennials that will live for generations.

If you don’t have any space directly in the ground peonies can be successfully grown in raised beds. Drainage is the key to planting in any situation, especially raised beds. We grow peonies in beds that are 12 feet long by 4 feet wide by 1 foot deep. We line the boxes with landscape fabric and fill them with potting soil amended with compost, worm castings, and crushed limestone or granite. The beds are placed on the existing soil for optimal drainage.

If you have lots of experience growing other long term perennials in pots you may also have success with peonies but it is risky. Make sure your pot is large, more like a planter and is at least 5 gallons in size, the bigger the pot the better. Commercial potting mixes are available, we have yet to find one that we really like, look for those with extra porosity.

Remember that your peony may need to be staked and that it will take several years to reach full size. Containers will need to remain outside in the winter as peonies need the cold season to flower (do not bring them inside or store in a warm greenhouse). Be sure that your pots do not continually fill with water, as this will cause peonies to rot. Peonies are especially susceptible in winter when the bottom of the pot can be frozen and prohibit drainage if the weather switches to rain. This factor is easier to mitigate in warmer climates that get fewer extreme freeze thaw cycles.

We also do not recommend having peonies in pots for a few seasons and then moving them to the ground. Peonies should be planted originally in their permanent location. Moving them will cause undue stress to the plant.

Amend the Soil

As your peony prefers to be planted and left in one location, it is worth taking the time to prepare the soil. Soil prep matters!

• When planting new gardens, it is best to get your soil tested. Here is a link to the Rutgers site that we use in NJ. If you are in another state, please refer to your agricultural extension office for help.

• You are looking to create a friable loam—a soft, rich, loose soil made of clay, sand, and compost. Peonies prefer a neutral pH of 6.5-7. Most often, you are looking to raise the pH. You can do this by adding lime and/or wood ash. Ask your agricultural extension for help.

• Generally, most dirt is sand and clay. Be prepared to add compost. Sandy soils drain well, but leech nutrition; heavy clay soils drains poorly, but retain nutrition. Compost will help both increase drainage and retain moisture while providing nutrition.

  • In very sandy soil, top dress quarterly with a thin layer of compost, as nutrition will leech through the soil quickly.

  • Heavy clay soils often have drainage issues; while they will hold onto nutrition longer, they will also retain water. It is therefore essential to improve drainage by adding compost and Greensand (or sand/rock dust) before planting. Additionally, top dressing with compost is recommended.

Preparing a bed

With soil amendments in mind, you have the options to dig individual holes or prepare an entire bed. Both require the soil to be amended to the depth of one foot. In all cases, after planting, get in the habit of lightly top dressing with compost at least once a year (more often if the soil in your area is particularly sandy).

 The graphics below show growth expectations for intersectional peonies. Although rare, it is possible that an intersectional peony will not produce growth above ground the first spring. Peonies are very resilient and hardy, but do take time to establish and become a mature flowering plant.

Intersectional peonies will mature to 3-4 feet wide, with more flowers and more stems being produced each year. The height of your peony depends on the cultivar.

Intersectional peonies can tolerate more heat than herbaceous peonies and can grow all the way south to Horticultural Zone 9! No additional care is recommended or required for these types of peonies in zones 7 through 9.

Spring Frosts

Peonies are incredibly cold hard plants. It is rare that light frost will damage plants or flower buds. More severe and prolonged frosts - multiple nights and temperatures in the teens - may damage buds and hurt the pants for the season. If you anticipate a hard or prolonged frost after your peonies have sprouted, you can protect your plants by covering them. Make sure the covering does not touch the plants or you will do more harm than good. Do not to touch your peonies when they are frozen as this will cause them to break, wait until after they have warmed back up.

That being said, growing commercially, we don’t have the option to protect our plants from frost. We have acres of peonies, and in our experience, frost damage is rare.

Staking

Unlike herbaceous peonies, intersectional peonies don’t require staking or support

Deadheading Peonies

Intersectional peonies will bloom in waves. Remove the spent flowers as the bloom progresses. Be careful not to remove any new flower buds. Plants will not produce viable seeds so there is no need to keep them. It is best to focus the plants energy on leaf and root development.

Feed Peonies

Planted in full sun with rich soil and great drainage, intersectional peonies can thrive almost entirely on their own as the nutrient cycle is self-sustaining. Nonetheless, a little food will help keep your peonies healthy and floriferous.

Feed lightly three times a year—in the fall when you clean up your garden and prepare plants for winter, in early spring just as shoots emerge, and again in early summer after plants have bloomed.

Compost: At Peony’s Envy, we primarily use locally-sourced compost, Neptune’s Harvest Fish and Seaweed Emulsion, and OMRI-certified worm castings. When applying compost, thin layers are better than thick, and remember to apply at the drip line and not over the center of the plant, since applying on the root will bury the plant too deeply and eventually prevent flowering. For large-scale projects in the area, we recommend Full Circle Mushroom Compost.

Foliar Feeds: Plants absorb nutrients more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. Liquid fertilizers, such as Neptune's Harvest Fish and Seaweed Fertilizer or Nature’s Source plant food, can be used to foliar feed during critical growing times. We recommend foliar feeding in early spring when peonies are setting buds.

Worm castings: When first planting, when planting in pots, or to reinvigorate a garden after long-term neglect, we recommend using worm castings as an extra boost. It is garden gold, and a little goes a long way. As an added bonus, peonies will love its high pH.

If you choose to use synthetic or partially synthetic fertilizers, choose one that is well-balanced and releases nutrients at a slow rate. A 10-10-10 fertilizer is best for spring and summer, and a 5-10-10 is best for fall. Rarely do we use synthetic fertilizers at Peony’s Envy.

Watering Peonies

With the more frequent droughts we have adjusted our tips on watering. Peonies like heavy infrequent soakings; when irrigation is necessary, consider drip lines instead of overhead sprinkler systems. During the first growing season after planting a new peony, ensure it gets a good soaking once a week. Weekly soakings keep the plant from being stressed by drought as it develops its fibrous root system. However, remember that peonies do not like wet feet, and be careful to not over water. Watering daily or use of foliar sprinkler systems can cause rot. It is essential that your peony be planted in well-draining soil so that the water does not pool around the plant. Established peonies require less supplemental watering but still benefit from heavy infrequent soakings, especially in times of drought.

Weeding - Do Not Add Mulch or Use Weed Suppressants

Do not mulch your intersectional peonies! Mulch will bury the crown of the peony too deeply and eventually cause it not to flower. In transitioning away from using mulch, remember that light layers of compost applied regularly around the drip line of your peonies (again, not on the crown) will feed your garden and can also help suppress weeds.

Instead, weed around your peonies. The shade from mature peonies will act as a weed suppressant from late spring to late fall. The first application of compost in early spring helps combat weed growth. After applying this first thin layer of compost, remove any weeds before they seed—this will ensure they do not spread throughout the year.

We often recommend under-planting your peonies with small spring bulbs, like miniature daffodils and crocus. They bloom before peonies, don't compete with them, and provide a nice early summer groundcover that reduces weeds. Be careful not to plant anything larger or that is particularly invasive around your peonies, or anything that will compete with your peonies and cause them to suffer.

Do not use any pesticides or weed suppressants anywhere close to your peonies! We have had several customers contact us with dead plants only to find out after laboratory testing that the runoff from their lawns, that had been sprayed with weed suppressants, killed their plants.

Typically you cut back your itoh/intersectional peonies so they are four to five inches above the ground. Before you cut, look for buds on the stems that may be forming - only certain varieties of intersectional peonies have them. If your intersectional peonies have side buds, cut to a consistent height above these buds. This will preserve more of the flowers while also sustaining a symmetrical plant.

Again, leaves should not be composted in your home garden compost because it typically does not get hot enough to kill fungal spores and bacteria that may be on your peony leaves.

Intersectional peonies have flowers that look like their tree peony parent but have longer stems, like their herbaceous parent. Be careful when cutting the stem, as it is important not to cut the woody portion of the plant that will remain above ground. It is also important not to take more than a third of the leaves at any given time, so be careful when cutting multiple stems. Intersectional peonies make outstanding cut flowers in colors that are not often found in peonies.

When to Cut

If you are wanting to use your peonies as cut flowers, cut them before the buds open when the green covering on the bud begins to break open. This time is between when the bud feels like a marble and when it feels like a marshmallow. If you cut too early they won't open, too late and they won't keep. This is not an exact science, each individual cultivar is slightly different-some can be cut earlier than others, experience will help bring success. Bringing the flowers inside at this point allows them to open at a slower rate, as they are opening in the cool of your house instead of the heat of the garden.

Where and How Much to Cut

When cutting plants of any type, it is important to never cut off more than a third of the greenery, as any more than this will have detrimental effects on the plant. Following the logic of the rule of thirds, you can take a higher number of flowers with short stems than you can flowers with long stems. When cutting, we try to leave as many of the leaves on the plant as possible to ensure that the plant can store enough energy through photosynthesis that it can produce healthy flowers the following year. Different cultivars will have slightly different stem lengths, as some produce flowers right above the greenery while others have flowers that tower a few feet above the plant.

How to Save

To preserve your flowers for weeks after their bloom time, simply cut them in the stage stated above and store them in the refrigerator. They can be stored in a vase with water, protected by a flower sleeve, for up to six months if you continually change out the water. They can also be stored in the refrigerator without water, placed on their side, wrapped in newspaper for a few weeks. They will rehydrate when placed in water. Note that the flowers will dehydrate in a frost-free refrigerator; flowers should be stored in an old-fashioned refrigerator or a floral refrigerator.

On both methods, watch for any mold or fungus and remove these portions as soon as they are spotted. Note that peonies stored for a long period of time will open faster and not last as long. It takes practice to store peonies successfully, so try it this year and see how long you can keep your peonies.

Peonies are very resilient plants that typically thrive and grow without incident. However, every once in a while a fungus or virus may take hold and impact the health of your peony plants. Although infections generally start in early spring, they often go unnoticed until later in the summer. Left unchecked, these diseases can do real damage to your peonies.

Powdery Mildew - Erysiphales (Fungus)

If you are experiencing a white powder like covering on the leaves of your peony, you have powdery mildew in your garden.

SYMPTOMS: Leaves turn white. Onset is in late June through September. It is not fatal and tree peonies are less prone than herbaceous or intersectional peonies to this fungus. In some years, powdery mildew is worse than others. It can infect plants when there are hot days, high humidity, and cool nights. Once the plant is infected there are virtually no sprays or oils that will completely rid the plant of powdery mildew this year. However, there are some preventative remedies to keep your plants from getting powdery mildew in coming years.

TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.

OUTLOOK: Considered more unsightly than harmful in peonies.

TREATMENT: Bacillus subtilis to boost plant's natural defenses; neem oil or other horticultural oils after the leaves have formed; baking soda spray (1t baking soda, 1qt. water and a few drops of liquid soap) on the soil in early spring and on the plant itself in the summer; rhubarb leaf tea; cornmeal as a soil amendment; or mixed as a spray; products containing sulfur, or a biofungicide recommended to treat powdery mildew on peonies;. All pesticides should be used according to package directions, and remedies should be tried on portions of the plant prior to making large scale applications.

Another good natural preventative remedy is to regularly spray a solution of 30% milk to 70% water on your plants on sunny days. This helps not only peonies, but all plants susceptible to powdery mildew. 

PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

SYMPTOMS: Stalks wilt and die, buds turn black. Onset is typically in early spring but can be at any time when temperatures remain below 70 degrees. Botrytis is especially prevalent when the weather is cool, wet, and humid. Botrytis is common and when seen in your garden can persist for years through spores in the soil.

TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.

OUTLOOK: Botrytis is easy to treat but can kill peonies and other plants when not treated, so it is especially important to pay attention to signs of the fungus.

TREATMENT: When noticed, cut off diseased portions of the plant, dipping the pruners in a 10% solution of bleach (or use Clorox wipes) between each cut to ensure the disease does not spread. Throw out the diseased portions; do not compost. A more aggressive option would be to use systemic fungicide labeled for use on peonies. The cooperative extension service of New Jersey recommends Ferban and Manebrom. Griffin Greenhouse Supply recommends products including Cease, Daconil, Medallion, and Veranda-O. Follow label instructions carefully and test fungicides on one plant before making large scale applications. Continue to treat according to the label instructions as the disease persists. Their are OMRI approved fungicides for the treatment of botrytis.

PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

Peony Blotch/Red Spot/Measles - Cladosporium paeoniae (Fungus)

SYMPTOMS: Small circular round spots begin to appear in spring just before the plants flower. The spots will increase in size and are not often detected until mid summer. If left unchecked spots can eventually cover the whole plant.

TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.

OUTLOOK: Does not immediately kill the plant but successive years of the fungal disease will impact the health of the plant.

TREATMENT: When noticed, cut off diseased portions of the plant, dipping the pruners in a 10% solution of bleach (or use Clorox wipes) between each cut to ensure the disease does not spread. Clean up all debris around the plants, and throw all of this matter away - do not compost. Use a fungicide that is intended for Peony Blotch on peonies, apply according to the manufacturers instructions.

PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

Phytophthora Blight - Phytophthora cactorum (Fungus)

SYMPTOMS: Phytophthora blight is a soil-borne fungus. The stems at the base of the plant will begin to darken and then wilt and die. Leaves may appear drought stressed. The entire plant may rot making it easy to pull from the ground. The fungus can survive in the soil for years as long as moist conditions persist. Can be spread by garden tools and contaminated soil. Symptoms are often more evident during periods of low rainfall making it easy to confuse the onset of this disease with drought.

TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.

OUTLOOK: Phytophthora can kill peonies and other plants.

TREATMENT: When noticed, cut off diseased portions of the plant, dipping the pruners in a 10% solution of bleach (or use Clorox wipes) between each cut to ensure the disease does not spread. Clean up all debris around the plants, and throw all of this matter away - do not compost. Rutgers Diagnostic Lab notes that the fungicide Subdue can be used to treat Phytophthora on peonies, apply according to the manufacturers instructions. Be sure to treat both the plant and the soil. Improve soil drainage and prevent water from pooling near plants.

PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

Sclerotinia Rot/Southern Blight (Fungus)

SYMPTOMS: Sclerotinia Rot is a soil-borne fungus.Rot begins at the base of the plant with water-soaked stem lesions. Leaves will turn yellow and die. During times of high humidity a white cotton-like fungus spreads around the base of the plant and the soil. The fungal fruiting bodies appear like small collections of mustard seeds on the ground near the base of the plant.They may eventually form a crust on the soil.

TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.

OUTLOOK: Sclerotina can kill peonies and other plants.

TREATMENT: Rutgers Diagnostic Lab recommends using either Heritage or Headway for use on peonies for Sclerotina Rot, apply according to manufacturers directions. Be sure to treat both the plant and the soil. If that fails, remove diseased plants and the surrounding soil from your garden, do not compost. Sterilize all tools. Cover the area with clear plastic and leave it for two to three months in the heat of summer. After this period, increase the drainage in your soil and leave the soil fallow for at least one season before replanting.

PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

Viral Diseases

Peonies are also susceptible to a small number of viruses including peony ringspot virus, leaf curl, Le Moine disease, and the mosaic virus. These are rare, difficult to cure, and it is generally recommended to remove infected plants from your garden.

SYMPTOMS: Poor growth and stunted growth. Leaves will have a mottled/mosaic appearance. Portions of the leaves can turn yellow and die. Can be spread by insects or tools.

TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.

OUTLOOK: Viral diseases can kill peonies and other plants. Remove and dispose of infected plants, do not compost.

PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

Bud-Blast

A wide variety of stressors can prevent peony buds from opening. This can include poor soil, immature plants, plants being buried too deeply, excessive mulch, not enough sun, and early spring frosts. Check the depth of your peony and adjust if necessary.

Chafer Beetles

SYMPTOMS: Peony flowers being eaten. Chafer beetles look similar to Japanese beetles. They can be removed by hand or killed with almost any insecticide. Neem oil is an organic option, read the product label for more detailed instructions. Ants are a natural predator and chase away chafer beetles.

Ants on Peonies

We have heard for generations that ants are necessary for peonies to flower. This is only part of the whole story. Peonies, as noted above, are attacked by chafer beetles which damage the buds and prevent peonies from flowering. Ants have evolved as the natural predator. Peonies secrete a sweet nectar, ants are fed by this nectar and in return chase away the chafer beetles.

To prevent bringing in ants when you cut your peony flowers, cut them when they are still in bud. This also increases the longevity of your cut flowers, as they open more slowly in the cool of your house than the heat of the outdoors.

Peonies Not Blooming

Peonies take time to become established. It is normal for a newly planted peony to not bloom the first year or two after planting. Peonies follow the well-known perennial truisms-first year sleep, second year creep, third year leap-or first year roots, second year shoots, third year flowers. They are well worth the wait.

If you have old established peonies that have beautiful green leaves and no flowers, it is often a problem with planting depth. This can be due to several reasons, such as mulching or shift in soil in the garden. Peonies are very sensitive to planting depth. If the plant becomes too deep, as it does when mulched, the shoots (called eyes) that form at the top of the root (the crown) do not get their proper "winter chill" and cannot form flower buds. This lack of winter chill is why peonies do not grow in places such as Florida or Southern California. If you have peonies that are not blooming, check the depth of your peony by delicately moving a bit of the soil from the top portion of the plant being careful not to break off the delicate pink eyes. The top of the root should be from 0.5 to 1.5 inches below the surface of the soil. For details on the exact planting depth for your area, see the Planting section. If you find your peony to be too deep, it will need to be lifted. Transplanting is best done in the fall; moving it in the fall will also ensure that it gets the proper winter chill in the following season. Note that the first year after it is transplanted, it may not bloom as peonies take a year to recover from being transplanted. Don't worry, they are well worth the wait and will live for hundreds of years.

Another possibility that should not be ruled out is amount of sunlight. Over time, surrounding trees and shrubs can shade out your peonies resulting in fewer and fewer flowers. The more sun you have the more flowers you will get.

If the overall health of your plant is declining, check planting depth, the amount of water, competition of roots, depletion of nutrients in the soil, or note if the area has flooded recently. It may be time to transplant your peony to a new location. Wet soil is a common factor in unhealthy peonies. It is possible to divide your peony when you transplant it by following instructions below. Plant divided roots in a new section of the garden so the soil in the former location can recover.

 If you are lucky enough to have mature peonies in your garden and they are blooming beautifully, first consider leaving them where they are, as peonies will sulk for a year or two after they are transplanted. If transplanting is inevitable, the time to do this is in the fall when the plants are dormant. If you are in a crunch, peonies can be transplanted successfully at other times of the year, but this is not recommended.

Before you start digging up your peony it is important to prepare the new location as mentioned on our Planting Section.

If you decide to transplant your intersectional peony in the fall, begin by removing the leaves the stems as you would do in fall cleanup. Do not cut back the main stem. If you want to divide the peony before replanting, count the major stems before digging. Plan ahead and pre-dig your holes-know that for every three to five stems, you can have approximately one new peony. See details on propagating/dividing below. Once this is done, lift your established intersectional peony using a large garden fork and begin at least eight inches from the base of the stem. Work your way around the plant and gently pry it from the ground. The roots are brittle and can easily be broken. Any time peonies are transplanted or divided, they take a few years to return to their previous grandeur.

Propagating by Root Division

Note, the photos above show an herbaceous peony being divided, while intersectionals are different the same idea applies.

The only way to create more intersectional peonies is to divide them. Root division, and/or grafting in the case of tree peonies, is the only way to create another plant that is identical to its parent plant. The seeds of intersectional peonies are not viable.

Peonies do not need to be divided. They can be planted and left in the same location for decades and will do incredibly well as long as they continue to get ample light, have minimal root competition, and the soil has good drainage. Propagation is simply a means to get more peonies. Scroll down for more information on each type of peony.

When dividing an intersectional peony, wash the dirt off the roots. The root has four parts: large tuberous roots, small fibrous roots, a connective crown, and eyes at the top of the crown. Rinse off the peony so you can see the plant clearly. Divide the plant into pieces by carefully cutting through the crown. Each piece should have at least one strong tuberous root and 3-5 eyes in the top of the crown. Plant each intersectional peony 3 feet apart, according to the details on the Planting Instructions section.