Herbaceous Peony

How Do You Plant and Care for Herbaceous Peonies?

Herbaceous peonies can be planted in both spring and fall. Like most long-lived perennials, they take three years to bloom prolifically. They are worth the wait! Peonies thrive in horticultural zones 3-8. Typically, peak bloom occurs in mid-May in the southern zones, late-May in the mid zones, and early-June in the colder zones. Peonies are a mainstay in every garden, the best cut flower available, and can be passed down through generations since they live for centuries. Looking for information on other types of peonies? We offer complete care guides for:

• Intersectional peonies
• Woodland peonies
• Tree peonies

When growing peonies en masse in a home garden, staking becomes more creative. This can be as simple as lines of steel stakes tied with heavyweight cotton twill, or grapevine poly monofilament attached to wooden posts, or as complex as grids made of bamboo attached to the top of steel legs or wooden posts. Below are photos of our Display Garden with steel stakes and wooden posts. We source our cotton twill in bulk from The Ribbon Factory. Our poly monofilament comes from Agtec. Peonies will often lean toward the side with more sun. In an open field in the northern hemisphere, this will be to the south. Staking peonies can reduce airflow through the plant, and thus promote disease. After peonies have bloomed, remove staking to increase airflow.

• White, blush, and pink are all typically very fragrant. We offer many varieties of white peonies for sale. We also have a broad selection of pink peonies for sale.
• Magenta is often referred to as red in peony culture, but actually ranges from very dark pink to purple-red and does not include true red cultivars.
• Merlot red peonies are occasionally classified as black; these are the darkest peonies
• Multi colored peonies have a combination of two or more distinct colors. Typically, the alternate color is yellow, but it is occasionally white.
• Green peonies are less common.
• Yellow herbaceous peonies are uncommon. They tend to be weak and slow-growing. Strong yellows exist in intersectional and tree peonies. Cream colored peonies are often classified as yellow but are not actually yellow in color.
• True red only exists in the herbaceous peony hybrids, created by crossing different parent species.
• Coral only exists in the herbaceous peony hybrids, created by crossing different parent species. They often fade to cream as they open. Tend to have strong stems

Herbaceous peonies grow well in horticultural zones 3-8. If you are in the northern, central, or northwest sections of the United States, choose your peonies with abandon. All peonies will grow well in your garden. Special considerations should be taken for zone 8 in the southern United States, where you experience early spring heat. Unsure of your horticultural zone? Click here to go to the USDA website, where you can enter your zip code to determine your zone. Please note that all herbaceous peonies grow well in the Pacific Northwest, despite the warmer zones along the coast. That area does not typically get the early spring heat that can make it important to choose your herbaceous peonies carefully, as in the south. These tips may help enhance your bloom in the Southern part of the United States, in herbaceous Zone 8:

1. Choose plants with very early or early bloom times. Choose mid-late-blooming cultivars with care, and avoid all late-blooming cultivars. You can view our list of recommended catalogs in our Herbaceous Peony 2026 Spring Catalog.
2. Cover the eyes on the roots with only half an inch of soil, and never ever mulch. Be careful not to plant the top of the cultivars too deeply or not deeply enough - too deep and they won’t flower, not deep enough and they may dehydrate and die.
3. If you experience an especially warm winter, you may consider icing your peonies from late-December through mid-February. The ice acts as snow and provides winter chill if done routinely. The video above gives a few tips on how to ice peonies.
4. Although herbaceous peonies don’t typically thrive in Zone 9, if you’ve moved south and are missing this part of your northern garden, try these icing tips as well. Please note that this is experimental and may not work in your area. Also consider Intersectional Peonies as they grow well in Zone 9.

• Clean up the area around your peonies to increase air flow and reduce competition from weeds and weed seeds (see below for details on weeding)
• Add compost and other soil amendments at the drip line to nourish your peonies (see below for details on feeding)
• Check the planting depth of your peonies. The crowns should remain 0.5 to 2 inches below the surface of the soil, depending on your horticultural zone (see above for details on planting depth).
• It is best to cut back your herbaceous peonies in the fall (see below for details) but if you missed doing this, be sure to remove the old dead stems in the spring before new shoots emerge.
• If your peonies had diseases last year, treat them in the spring to prevent reinfection.

Planted in full sun with rich soil and great drainage, herbaceous peonies can thrive almost entirely on their own as the nutrient cycle is self-sustaining. Nonetheless, a little food will help keep your peonies healthy and floriferous. Feed lightly three times a year: in the fall when you clean up your garden and prepare plants for winter, in early spring just as shoots emerge, and again in early summer after plants have bloomed. Testing your soil periodically will help you know what nutrients are needed most. Here is a link to the Rutgers site that we use in NJ. If you are in another state, please refer to your agricultural extension office for help.

• Compost: At our peony farm, we primarily use locally-sourced compost, Neptune’s Harvest Fish and Seaweed Emulsion, and OMRI-certified worm castings. When applying compost, thin layers are better than thick. Remember to apply at the drip line and not over the center of the plant as applying on the root will bury the plant too deeply and eventually prevent flowering.
• Foliar Feeds: know that plants also absorb nutrients through their leaf surfaces. Liquid fertilizers, such as Neptune's Harvest Fish and Seaweed Fertilizer or Nature’s Source plant food. We recommend foliar feeding in early spring just before peonies set their buds.
• Worm Castings: When first planting and to reinvigorate a garden after long-term neglect, we recommend using worm castings as an extra boost. It is garden gold, and a little goes a long way.

If you choose to use synthetic or partially synthetic fertilizers, choose one that is well-balanced and releases nutrients at a slow rate. A 10-10-10 fertilizer is best for spring and summer, and a 5-10-10 is best for fall.

Peonies like heavy infrequent soakings; when irrigation is necessary, consider drip lines instead of overhead sprinkler systems. During the first growing season after planting a new peony, ensure it gets a good soaking at least once a week, especially in the heat of summer. Weekly soakings keep the plant from being stressed by drought as it develops its fibrous root system. However, remember that peonies do not like wet feet. Be careful not to overwater. Overwatering or the use of foliar/overhead sprinkler systems can cause disease. Your peony should be planted in well-draining soil so that the water does not pool around the plant. Established peonies require less supplemental watering but still benefit from heavy infrequent soakings, especially in times of drought and in the heat of summer. Herbaceous leaves should stay green until fall. If leaves turn brown prematurely, it is typically a sign of insufficient water. Leaves and stems turning black, having black splotches, or being covered in white powder are indicative of disease.

Herbaceous peonies should be cut to the ground in early fall. Exactly when to do this depends on how your peonies are looking. If the leaves are still healthy and shiny, leave them for now. If they are looking lackluster, are dotted with brown spots, have turned brown, or are covered in a white mold, cut them to the ground now to remove any disease from the garden. (If you are interested in learning more about the diseases that cause these issues, click the links in the last sentence.) You want to keep leaves as long as you can, but as the leaves fade or show signs of disease they are no longer photosynthesizing sunlight into sugar and should be removed. Early decline is common in newly planted peonies. They are not dead, they just fade early. Cut back your herbaceous peony stems so they are two to three inches above the ground and throw away the leaves. Leaves should not be composted in your home garden compost because it does not get hot enough to kill fungal spores and bacteria that may be on your peony leaves.

CAUTION: Only cut back your herbaceous peonies. Do not cut back your tree peonies! They have a woody structure that must remain intact. See our tree peony care page for details.

Additional Fall Care (see above for even more details)

• Clean up the area around your peonies to increase air flow and reduce weeds and weed seeds.
• Add compost and other soil amendments at the drip line to nourish your peonies through the winter.
• Check the planting depth of your peonies. The crowns should remain 0.5 to 2 inches below the surface of the soil, depending on your horticultural zone.
• Ensure your peonies have sufficient water, but not too much water. If your peonies have turned brown early, this can be a sign of dehydration. Ensure your peony roots receive sufficient water throughout the rest of the season and plan ahead for next year. Peonies like heavy, infrequent soakings. Be careful not to overwater as this can cause disease.

If you are experiencing a white powder-like covering on the leaves of your peony, you have powdery mildew in your garden.

• SYMPTOMS: Leaves turn white. Onset is in late June through September. It is not fatal, and tree peonies are less prone than herbaceous or intersectional peonies to this fungus. In some years, powdery mildew is worse than in others. It can infect plants when there are hot days, high humidity, and cool nights. Once the plant is infected, there are virtually no sprays or oils that will completely rid the plant of powdery mildew this year. However, there are some preventative remedies to keep your plants from getting powdery mildew in the coming years.
• TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to the agricultural university’s plant diagnostic center in your state for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At our peony farm, we use:
  • Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES
  • Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic
• OUTLOOK: Considered more unsightly than harmful in peonies.
• TREATMENT: Bacillus subtilis to boost plant's natural defenses; neem oil or other horticultural oils after the leaves have formed; baking soda spray (1t baking soda, 1qt. water and a few drops of liquid soap) on the soil in early spring and on the plant itself in the summer; rhubarb leaf tea; cornmeal as a soil amendment; or mixed as a spray; products containing sulfur, or a biofungicide recommended to treat powdery mildew on peonies;. All pesticides should be used according to package directions, and remedies should be tried on portions of the plant prior to making large-scale applications. Another good natural preventative remedy is to regularly spray a solution of 30% milk to 70% water on your plants on sunny days. This helps not only peonies, but all plants susceptible to powdery mildew.
• PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Encourage good air circulation by spacing peonies at least 3 feet apart and by keeping the base of each plant clean and free of weeds. Water only as needed and always in the morning using drip irrigation; do not use overhead irrigation and avoid watering at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where the soil floods. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. Keep a close eye on your peony plants, especially during early spring rains when fungi and viruses begin to take hold.

• SYMPTOMS: Stalks wilt and die, buds turn black. Onset is typically in early spring but can be at any time when temperatures remain below 70 degrees. Botrytis is especially prevalent when the weather is cool, wet, and humid. Botrytis is common and, when seen in your garden, can persist for years through spores in the soil.
• TESTING: When the cause of a problem is not clear, sending a sample to your state's agricultural university plant diagnostic center is the most reliable way to get answers. A laboratory diagnosis identifies the specific pathogen involved and comes with treatment recommendations grounded in what your plants are actually dealing with rather than general advice. We use:
  • Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES
  • Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic
• OUTLOOK: Botrytis is easy to treat but can kill peonies and other plants when not treated, so it is especially important to pay attention to signs of the fungus.
• TREATMENT: At the first sign of disease, remove the affected portions of the plant immediately using clean pruners. Dip the blades into a 10% bleach solution between every cut, or use Clorox wipes as an alternative, to make sure the cutting tool does not carry the problem from one part of the plant to another. Dispose of everything you remove in the trash rather than the compost pile, where disease can survive and spread to other parts of the garden. A more aggressive option would be to use systemic fungicide labeled for use on peonies. The cooperative extension service of New Jersey recommends Ferban and Manebrom. Griffin Greenhouse Supply recommends products including Cease, Daconil, Medallion, and Veranda-O. Follow label instructions carefully and test fungicides on one plant before making large-scale applications. Continue to treat according to the label instructions as the disease persists. There are OMRI-approved fungicides for the treatment of botrytis.
• PREVENTION: Strong, healthy peonies begin with decisions made before planting, not after problems appear. Selecting a site with full sun, preparing soil for both drainage and fertility, and planning spacing that allows air to move freely through the planting are all preventive measures that reduce disease pressure across the entire growing season. Three feet between plants is the minimum spacing needed for adequate airflow, and the ground around each plant should stay clear of weeds and organic debris that hold moisture against the crown. Water when the plant needs it and not before, always at ground level in the morning using drip irrigation, and never by any method that wets the leaves or runs into the evening hours. Low spots in the garden where rainwater collects are unsuitable for peonies, regardless of any other conditions present. Incorporate compost into the planting bed to establish good soil structure and nutrition from the start, and replenish it over time to maintain fertility. The weeks of early spring, when rain is frequent and temperatures are still cool, are the period when fungal and viral problems are most likely to develop, so monitor plants closely during that window.

• SYMPTOMS: Small circular spots begin to appear in spring just before the plants flower. The spots will increase in size and are not often detected until mid-summer. If left unchecked, spots can eventually cover the whole plant.
• TESTING: Accurate identification is the first step toward effective treatment, and a laboratory diagnosis removes any uncertainty about what you are seeing. Your state's agricultural university runs a plant diagnostic center that accepts samples from home gardeners and returns confirmed findings along with specific treatment recommendations based on the actual pathogen involved. We recommend:
  • Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES
  • Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic
• OUTLOOK: Does not immediately kill the plant but successive years of the fungal disease will impact the health of the plant.
• TREATMENT: When noticed, cut off diseased portions of the plant, dipping the pruners in a 10% solution of bleach (or use Clorox wipes) between each cut to ensure the disease does not spread. Clean up all debris around the plants, and throw all of this matter away - do not compost. Use a fungicide that is intended for Peony Blotch on peonies, apply according to the manufacturer's instructions.
• PREVENTION: The foundation of disease prevention in peonies is a growing environment that gives the plant everything it needs to stay strong. Full sun, well-prepared soil, careful watering, and room for air to move around each plant reduce the conditions that pathogens depend on to take hold. Plant with at least three feet between each peony, and keep the ground around the base clear of weeds and fallen debris throughout the growing season. Water at the soil level in the morning using drip irrigation, and never use overhead watering or water late in the day when moisture cannot evaporate before nightfall. Choose planting sites carefully and avoid any area where standing water collects after heavy rain. Before planting, work the soil thoroughly to improve both drainage and fertility, and add compost to establish a nutritional base that supports long-term plant health. Once the season gets underway, keep a close watch on foliage during the wet weeks of early spring, when the combination of cool temperatures and consistent moisture gives fungi and viruses their best opportunity to spread.

• SYMPTOMS: Phytophthora blight is a soil-borne fungus. The stems at the base of the plant will begin to darken and then wilt and die. Leaves may appear drought-stressed. The entire plant may rot, making it easy to pull from the ground. The fungus can survive in the soil for years as long as moist conditions persist. Can be spread by garden tools and contaminated soil. Symptoms are often more evident during periods of low rainfall, making it easy to confuse the onset of this disease with drought.
• TESTING: Taking the guesswork out of disease identification is always worth the effort. Every state has a plant diagnostic center affiliated with its agricultural university where you can send a sample and receive a confirmed laboratory diagnosis along with treatment recommendations tailored to what your plants are actually facing. We use:
  • Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES
  • Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic
• OUTLOOK: Phytophthora can kill peonies and other plants.
• TREATMENT: When noticed, cut off diseased portions of the plant, dipping the pruners in a 10% solution of bleach (or use Clorox wipes) between each cut to ensure the disease does not spread. Clean up all debris around the plants, and throw all of this matter away - do not compost. Rutgers Diagnostic Lab notes that the fungicide Subdue can be used to treat Phytophthora on peonies, and apply according to the manufacturer's instructions. Be sure to treat both the plant and the soil. Improve soil drainage and prevent water from pooling near plants.
• PREVENTION: A peony's ability to resist disease is directly tied to the quality of its growing conditions. Sun exposure, soil fertility, water management, and airflow all play a role, and getting all four right from the start is the most effective disease prevention available. Keep plants spaced at least three feet apart so air moves freely between them, and clear weeds and debris from the base of each plant throughout the season. When watering is necessary, do it at the root level in the morning with drip irrigation and avoid any method that wets the foliage, particularly in the evening. Site selection matters as well: areas where water pools after rain are poor choices for peonies, regardless of how well the soil is otherwise prepared. Work compost into the bed before planting to build fertility and improve drainage, and maintain that organic matter over time to keep the soil in good condition. Pay closest attention to your plants in early spring, when cool, wet weather creates the conditions that fungi and viruses need to establish.

• SYMPTOMS: Sclerotinia Rot is a soil-borne fungus. Rot begins at the base of the plant with water-soaked stem lesions. Leaves will turn yellow and die. During times of high humidity, a white cotton-like fungus spreads around the base of the plant and the soil. The fungal fruiting bodies appear like small collections of mustard seeds on the ground near the base of the plant. They may eventually form a crust on the soil.
• TESTING: Before treating any disease, knowing exactly what you are dealing with will produce better results than guessing. Most states have a plant diagnostic center through their agricultural university, and sending a sample there will get you a laboratory diagnosis along with treatment recommendations specific to what your plants are actually showing. We use:
  • Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES
  • Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic
• OUTLOOK: Sclerotina can kill peonies and other plants.
• TREATMENT: For sclerotinia rot specifically, the Rutgers Diagnostic Lab recommends Heritage or Headway as effective treatments. Follow the manufacturer's directions precisely and apply to both the plant and the surrounding soil, not the foliage alone. If treatment does not resolve the problem, remove the affected plants along with the soil immediately surrounding them and dispose of everything away from the garden. Do not add diseased material to a compost pile. Sterilize any tools that came into contact with the affected area before using them elsewhere in the garden. Lay clear plastic over the exposed soil and leave it in place for two to three months during the hottest part of summer, allowing heat to build up and address remaining pathogens in the ground. Once that period has passed, improve drainage in the area before doing anything else, then leave the soil fallow for a full season before considering replanting.
• PREVENTION: Disease resistance in peonies starts with the conditions you create before the plant goes into the ground. Good drainage, nutritious soil, adequate sun, and consistent air movement around each plant are the four factors that determine how well a peony holds up across the growing season. Space plants a minimum of three feet apart to keep air circulating freely through the foliage, and remove weeds and debris from the base of each plant regularly. Water at the root level in the morning using drip irrigation, never overhead, and never in the evening when moisture sits on the foliage overnight. Avoid low-lying areas where water collects after rain, as saturated soil is one of the most common causes of root and crown disease in peonies. Prepare the soil thoroughly before planting by amending for drainage and fertility, and incorporate compost to build long-term nutritional quality. During early spring, when wet weather creates ideal conditions for fungal and viral spread, check plants frequently and address any early signs of trouble before they take hold.

Peonies are also susceptible to a small number of viruses, including peony ringspot virus, leaf curl, Le Moine disease, and the mosaic virus. These are rare, difficult to cure, and it is generally recommended to remove infected plants from your garden.

• SYMPTOMS: Poor growth and stunted growth. Leaves will have a mottled/mosaic appearance. Portions of the leaves can turn yellow and die. Can be spread by insects or tools.
• TESTING: To ensure an accurate identification of any issues, we highly recommend professional testing. For a precise laboratory diagnosis and specific treatment advice, please submit a sample to your state agricultural university's plant diagnostic center.
• We recommend and use:
  • Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES
  • Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic
• OUTLOOK: Viral diseases can kill peonies and other plants. Remove and dispose of infected plants; do not compost.
• PREVENTION: Vigorous peonies possess a natural resistance to illness. To keep them thriving, provide the necessary balance of sunlight, rich soil, consistent air flow, and appropriate hydration. Maintaining at least 3 feet of space between each plant and keeping the base clear of weeds will significantly improve air circulation. When watering is required, utilize drip irrigation during the morning hours, making sure to avoid both nighttime watering and overhead systems. It is vital to avoid planting in flood-prone, low-lying spots. Before you begin planting, prepare the site by amending the soil to ensure it is both well-draining and nutrient-rich, using compost as a primary amendment. Monitor your peonies closely, particularly as fungi and viruses are most likely to emerge during the wet conditions of early spring.

All herbaceous peonies turn brown and die back in the fall. If your peonies have turned brown in the summer, this can be a sign of dehydration. Ensure your peony roots receive sufficient water throughout the rest of the season and plan ahead for next year. Peonies like heavy, infrequent soakings. Be careful not to overwater as this can cause disease. Click here for more information on watering your peonies. Another common cause of your peonies turning brown prematurely can be dog pee. Plants along thoroughfares or on corners can turn into marking posts for the local dog population; this can cause your peonies to suffer or die.  Also consider pesticide drift. If you, or your neighbor, have treated your lawn or garden with any herbicides, these could have drifted and affected your peonies. We have had countless customers send their peonies away to their local agricultural extension for fungal analysis, only to find that the herbicide was the culprit.

If you are lucky enough to have mature peonies in your garden and they are blooming beautifully, first consider leaving them where they are, as peonies will sulk for a year or two after they are transplanted.

Transplanting - Option A - You have time and can do it the ideal way:

• The best time to transplant your peonies is in the fall when the plants are dormant.
• It is best to dig up your plants and replant them as soon as possible. Before you start digging up your peonies, prepare the new locations as mentioned in our Planting section.
• Begin by cutting back the stems as you would do in fall cleanup.
• We encourage you to divide the peony before replanting. Count the stems before digging to get even more out of your peony. Plan ahead and pre-dig your holes-know that for every three to five stems, you can have approximately one new peony. See details on propagating/dividing just below.
• To dig your peonies, lift them using a large garden fork. Begin at least eight inches from the base of the stem. Work your way around the plant and gently pry it from the ground. The roots are brittle and can easily be broken. Take care and try not to break the roots.
• Any time peonies are transplanted or divided, they take a few years to return to their previous grandeur. Watch for frost heaving in the winter and make sure they get adequate water during the growing season.

Transplanting - Option B - You are moving and have to do it now; timing is not on your side.

• Moving is a strenuous process. If you are making the effort to take your peonies with you, we want to help you get the most out of your legacy peonies
• Seasonal Tips:
  • Fall: If you move in fall, it is a good time to dig and divide. If you have time to dig your peonies from your old home and create a fabulous new garden in your new home, go for it! You amaze us! But more often than not, other things take precedent and you need a way to store your peonies until you can plant them properly. Read on for how to store them.
  • Spring or Summer: If you move in the spring or summer, then it is not a good time to dig or divide your peonies. If you can anticipate your move, you can dig your peonies the previous fall and store them as mentioned below. If it is very early spring and your peonies have not yet broken dormancy, then you can treat them as though you are digging them in the fall. If you don’t have either of these luxuries,  then dig them when you can dig them, knowing they will be a bit more knocked back by missing the growing season of spring or summer. Peonies are resilient. The tops of your plants may die back; this is ok. You can also cut them back if that is easier for moving. See below for how to store them until fall when you can divide and plant them properly.
  • Winter: If you are moving in winter, in northern regions, you need to plan ahead and pre-dig your peonies so they aren’t frozen in the ground. See below for how to store them. If you missed this window, you will need to make arrangements to dig your peonies once the ground thaws. Try to dig them as early as possible in the spring before they break dormancy (before the crocus start to bloom). If you catch them before they start growing, then you can treat them like you are digging and dividing in the fall. If this timing turns out to be late spring, see above.
• How to store your peonies:
  • Peonies can be held in 15-20 gallon plastic pots, bulb crates, or large fabric pots for a season or two. This is not a forever solution; this is just to get you through. If you have a lot of peonies, raised beds could be your best storage solution. Click here for how to build raised beds.
  • Fill your pots with high-quality potting soil or peat moss. Good drainage is essential! Do not use soil from the ground; your peonies will rot and die.
  • Remove as much of the original soil from around the peony as possible and put the entire plant in a pot. Cover the roots so the pink eyes (or the base of the stems) are covered with 1 inch of potting soil. See the Planting section above for planting depth details.
  • Water in well.
  • Store your pots/crates in an area of the garden with dappled shade so they get less water stress from the heat of the sun.
  • If you are storing during the growing season, be sure to water regularly. Peonies need good drainage, but should not be drought-stressed. In general, potted plants need a bit more water than plants in the ground.
  • If you are storing over winter, make sure your pots are stored in a way where they can drain. If in horticultural zones 3-5, consider heeling in your pots (grouping your pots together and mounding well-draining soil around the outside of the group for extra insulation - do not add soil to the tops of the pots, just the sides).
• What to do when the first fall arrives:
  • Divide your peonies the first fall after storing them. This will allow you to get the most out of your legacy peonies.
  • Take the time to plant them well! You have gone through all this work. Make sure to give them the best new home.

Shop Quality Peonies with Us Today

With the right cultivar selection and a well-prepared planting site, one correctly planted root becomes a dependable herbaceous peony. Plants establish over three seasons and then return each spring with more stems, more flowers, and a stronger root system than the year before. A correctly sited plant is a generational garden fixture, requiring minimal intervention to perform beautifully across a lifetime of growing seasons. Every plant we ship arrives individually packaged in potting mix, fully labeled with cultivar information, and ready to go directly into the ground on arrival. Our nationwide bare-root shipping is timed to plant dormancy so every order reaches you at the right point in the growing cycle. The 100% satisfaction guarantee within seven days of delivery means you can add to your collection with complete confidence. To find the right cultivar for your garden, shop our full selection and buy peonies online with us today.